Saturday, April 13, 2019

Blue Highways - Campania - Part VI

You’ve done it now.  You crossed Caamano Sound to the south end of Campania.  You have been adding a day here and a day there with these route deviations but you were smart and included enough food in the Bella Bella / Klemtu supply drop to allow some choices and the weather days that the largest intact temperate rainforest in the world may choose to exact.  Your crossing was blessed with decent visibility that allowed for you to compare the vista looking far up Campania Sound towards Grenville  and towards the granite cliffs of Mount Pender and beyond.  No contest.

You have taken one more step towards forsaking the purity of the Inside Passage.  You rationalize the move by telling yourself that you can still get back to Grenville Channel through Otter Channel at the north end of Campania but the truth of the matter is that you are really starting to like it out here.  You like the big sky, exposure, large beaches and lack of wildlife drama.  If you want to share your beach with bears this isn’t the place to do it. 

The kelp near shore is relentless and you can go outside of it or stay in tight to shore.  The wind is starting to pick up and interact with the flood that is pushing you up Estevan Sound so inside the kelp and near shore seems the prudent choice.  Besides there are all of those beautiful beaches to choose from.   So hard to pick just one.  Not counting the break you took at the south end of the island you have been paddling for less than five hours.  You aren’t feeling like stopping but look at that perfect beach!  Right at the base of Mount Pender, white sand beach, tropical look at high tide, reliable fresh water stream to the south.  Paradise!


Best land and set up camp.  Maybe after that go out and fish for dinner, gather some water, walk the beach, climb a mountain or lay out on the large warm granite rocks and take a nap.  Tomorrow?  Who knows?  Press on or take a well-deserved day off.  Campania isn’t easy to get to and you may not be back.

I call this “Ashes Camp”.  I travel with some of my parent’s ashes and when I find a special place I spread some of them. 

1 comment:

Anonymous said...

Great blog Jon! I and a few other folk who are looking for the sea less traveled are in the midst of planning a trip to Campania and the Estevan Group this coming July. There is very limited information on the area on the web or in print for that matter. That is in part why we are going there, but your blog, descriptions and charts have been most useful. Thanks for the effort to write up your trips.

Cheers, Rick