Kayak Bill Camps - Cockle Bay

Bill had been out for nearly four months and was taking his time getting back to Shearwater to resupply.  On October 2, 2003 he experienced a “Perfect traveling day along Swindle Island shore” while paddling from Higgins Pass Camp to Dallas Island nudged on by a light westerly breeze.

Eastbound on Higgins Passage

After two nights on Dallas he did a surprising thing.  A man who considered 25 NM an average day traveled just under 4.5 NM through Moss Passage to the Heiltsuk Cabin located on the eastern shore of Lady Douglas Island in Cockle Bay.  

Cockle Bay Cabin

I don’t believe that this cabin was a regular stop for him and in spite of the fact that Seaforth was ebbing most of that day it was a very small exchange and would have generated little current.  He could have made it to Shearwater that day.  I guess he wasn’t ready to be back in town but still wanted some creature comforts.  Or maybe it was the strong low pressure system approaching. 

The Cockle Bay cabin is pretty large with bunks for at least 14. 

The main living space has benches and a large floor so at least 8 more can find space to crowd in.  There is a wood stove that does a good job of heating the cabin when the flue is intact.

 

A stainless steel sink drains to the outside.  It’s a BYO Water situation though. 

Just outside is a real outhouse with a real door which always feels like a luxury on a kayak trip and for Bill must have been like staying at the Ritz. 

October 6^th Dawned wet and windy.  He spent the day cooking and doing laundry.  By evening it started raining very hard and continued through the night.  Must have been nice to have had a metal roof and a wood stove.  I wonder if he slept in one of the bunks with a foam pad or if he was more comfortable on the floor next to the stove. 

Alec Islet

Wind continued to build the next day but allowed him to get out to the small island in front of the cabin to gather clams.  This is the island that Freya Hoffmeister camped on May 1, 2017 on her Expedition around North America.

 

By the 8^th Bill was reporting “Storm Force to Hurricane south-easterlies with heavy rain noon till approx. midnight.  WILD PM”.  The cabin faces southeast so those winds would have been striking the front door with full force.  Wild indeed.

After eight nights at the cabin Bill packed his kayak under the watchful eye of “ 3 wolves” and left Cockle Bay for Shearwater. 

Currents generated by a 3+ meter flood crowded through Perceval Narrows past Cockle Bay and up Mathieson Channel making progress to the shelter of Reid Passage interesting enough that he described it as a “Hard paddle thru narrows”. 

He spent 3 ½ weeks in Shearwater preparing for his final trip.

Continued..........