Wolf Beach Campsite
70 degrees, Clear
NW @ 15 – 20
W swell 2 meter with wind waves to 3 feet Seas Moderate
Glenn Lewis had warned me about confusion that occurs when the ebb
tries to turn south out of Hakai Passage so I was choosing to launch on a
rising tide. That made for a pretty long slog to get the boat and four
loads of gear down to the water's edge.
Morning at Wolf Beach
The swell was immediately present but the predicted 15-20 knot
wind was still in the 10 knot range. The sea state was a bit messy
but made for enjoyable paddling. The shoreline disappeared into
thickening fog so I was afforded only occasional glimpses of Calvert's many
lovely northern beaches when I tucked into a bay.
Fog Develops
What I was able to see was gorgeous but each point of land
presented a new challenge. The current was flowing north along the shore,
across the swell and counter to the wind so it made for interesting water.
Each point created reflection and turbulence so chop above my head was
the norm. Definitely active but fun. Dublin Point, in particular,
really had its bitch on and gave me as much "fun" as I cared for
while crawling on against the flood.
Once I gained Bolivar Beach I was past Dublin Point and its evil
southern sister which allowed most of the wind and waves to be on my stern, improving
my quality of life. The fog was lifting, also, presenting me with the
sweeping beauty of Bolivar. What a magnificent beach. I paddled
about 300 meters off shore which put me about 50 meters beyond the peaking surf
break. The beach roared loudly and without reflected waves I had a little
over 1 NM of smooth sailing.
During this trip I had heard several paddlers refer to Bolivar as "Three Mile Beach". Does anyone know where that name comes from? The beach isn't 3 miles long. Not even 1/2 that. Magnificent, yes. Three miles long, no.
The last
4 NM to Blackney Beach went fast and were a bit concerning. It had been
about four hours since I had left Wolf Beach at the north end of Calvert Island
intent on landing at Blackney. The north wind had risen past 15 knots and
the seas were a solid 2 meter plus wind waves that combined to 9 feet opposing
the northward flowing flood current. It was busy and getting kind of big.
I was hoping that Blackney Island, the kelp and shoal would knock the
swell down. If it didn't I might be fixin' to hurt.
As I
neared Blackney Beach I was dismayed to see how far off shore the island was,
funneling the wind and swell rather than blocking it and allowing it full
access to my desired landing site. I was arriving right at high tide so
all of the energy robbing kelp heads were submerged and the current, running
north over the shoal between Blackney and Calvert Islands, was standing the
seas up on my approach. The beach was lit up in an unfriendly fashion and
pain looked like a possibility. Down in the troughs I could see only the
tops of Calvert's tallest trees but the crests offered a brief view of the
beach. At the top of a wave I spotted a 30-foot wide section of beach
tucked in behind some rocks at the north end. It was right where I hoped
it would be. I was moving fast and on final approach. There would
be no go-around. I back paddled hard against a breaking wave that smacked
against my back and shoulders, braced and then broke hard for the lee of the
rocks. Using the next wave to clear the rocks I glided in on tiny one
foot waves. High anxiety and then relief.
The
exposed shore was small, without shade and blisteringly hot. I quickly
stripped off my dry suit and base layers and hung them to dry on some logs.
The evening high tide was going to come up very close to the forest so I
looked for an upland clearing but found none. Few people paddle here so
there are no established tent clearings. The thick forest barred any
hopes of entry to higher ground so I settled for the highest spot I could find
on the beach and figured that I had a three inch buffer from the next high
tide. I set my alarm for 2:00 AM. I figured that if it didn't go
off or I had miscalculated or the wind and swell increased or the barometric
dropped I would be wakened by the movement of surrounding logs before things
got too wet or I was crushed. A decent option where others don't exist.
Walking the beach I found the prints of a large wolf. Comparing his prints with the tide line it was clear that he had watched my approach and landing. I had been too busy to look for wildlife but he had watched me and sensing my anxiety had figured that I wouldn't be good company. He chose to leave the beach in my custody.
I wish he would have stuck around.
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