Friday, January 20, 2017

Blue Highways - Hakai Luxvbalis - Part II



Traveling northbound on the IP you exit Fitz Hugh Sound by hanging a left into Lama Passage and following the shoreline of Denny Island to Bella Bella.  Most folks stop at Bella Bella / Shearwater to pick up a resupply, do laundry, take a shower, sleep in a real bed and/or to eat a real dinner of pizza and beer.  “Blue Highway-Hakai” recommends that you cross Fitz Hugh Sound after visiting the Addenbroke Light Station and work your way up Calvert Island’s steep eastern shoreline to Kwakshua Channel or Hakai Passage.  Both will take you west into the heart of Hakai Luxvbalis Conservancy Area which is an unspoiled region of magnificent beaches and stunning beauty.  Kwakshua is more protected from winds and its currents are light where Hakai Passage is magnificent but may display both in spades.




The Northwestern corner of Calvert Island is comprised of the Choked Passage complex with famous Wolf Beach, No-Name Beach and enormous North Beach.  Wolf Beach is well-named for its wolf population,  You may not see them but they will be all through your camp at night so don’t leave anything important out for them to steal.  No-Name Beach seems to have no name so that’s what I call it.  It is the least visited and most intimate but can be awkward if your comings and goings are at low tide levels.  If bigger is better then North Beach is the place to be.  At a little over ½ mile long it is the second largest beach on an island renowned for its deserted beaches.  It is also right on the corner of Choked Passage and the open ocean.

Choked Passage

if you have generous sea conditions you can round that corner at Surf Islets and have your choice of more beaches, large and small, protected and exposed.  If you choose to round that corner and head south pay attention and be clear on the weather and sea condition’s forecast.  Many paddlers who stop to camp for just the night fall in love and end up staying a while.

Wolf Beach

Heading north from Calvert Island you cross Hakai Passage which deserves respect and consideration.  Plan your crossing to avoid winds opposing current.  Once across Hakai Passage you can wind your way in behind Stirling Island if seeking cover or stay out in Kildidt Sound and make good time to the Serpent Group, Triquet and Cultus Sound.

North Beach

With good weather and tides you can make it from Cultus Sound to Bella Bella in a day, however, many paddlers choose to break that up and spend a night at Shell Beach south of Soulsby Point.

Sunrise on Triquet

This Blue Highway will add a day to the standard IP route unless you decide to stay longer on Calvert, Serpent Group, Triquet, Cultus, etc.  Most folks stay longer and I believe that it is time well spent with sights worth seeing.

Continued..........

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