Monday, November 4, 2019

Higgins Pass Camp - Found



Glenn Lewis and I had been searching for this camp for years.  We had a copy of Bill’s chart showing the location of the camp on an island less than a kilometer from the main campsite at the west end on Higgins Passage.  ‘We had pretty good beta on the location but the site was confusing. 

Glenn had talked to a power boater who had met Bill at Higgins Passage and visited his camp.  He described it as having no beach and set far enough back that it wasn’t visible from the water.  Further, he mentioned that in spite of the lack of a beach Bill had concocted some means of dealing with his kayak. 

From the carefully placed ink dot that Bill used to locate the camp on his chart it was hard to discern exactly what he was pointing at.  Glenn and I differed on where the camp would be and in 2017 I conducted an unsuccessful search that was cut short by the ebbing tide and an approaching weather system. 

In 2018 Glenn camped at Higgins Passage during a solo mission and searched about 600 meters of shoreline where it made sense that the camp would be based on the mark on the chart, the description of the man who described his visit with Bill and Glenn’s instincts on where a camp would be based on wind, weather and Bill’s choices.  His search yielded no sign of Billy.  Glenn has been to many of Bill’s camps in the past and knew how these camps disappeared in the forest so I was surprised that his search came up empty.

It has often been said by others that Billy Davidson never carried a camera during his time on the coast but it turns out that is incorrect.  Prior to leaving Calgary Bill was into filming and probably had some gear.  When Brandon Pullan’s book on Billy comes out next year we will all learn more about this phase of his life but it would be safe to say that cameras were not unknown to him. 

Eight or nine years ago I established contact with a man who had grown up with Bill at the Wood’s Christian Home in Calgary.  Following Bill’s wake, he ended up with many of his charts, journals and photos.  Over the years he has shared parts and pieces with me but it wasn’t until last Winter that he offered a number of photos that Bill had taken at his camps.  Most of them I could identify from previous visits while others suggested locations but lacked identifying factors.  Four of the photos looked like the lagoon that I had searched at Higgins Passage in 2017.  One photo was taken from the edge of the forest looking out towards the water where Bill’s kayak was in frame above the rocky shore and the entrance to the lagoon was obvious.  With that information it was pretty easy to determine where the camp was and in July 2019 Glenn paddled into the lagoon on a 3.7 meter tide and stepped out on the steep rocky shoreline. 

After locating the cedar tree shown in Bill’s photo he started searching the edge of the forest.   At first there were no signs of a camp but then 20 – 30 meters west of the Cedar tree he spotted a wooden step placed between the top of the beach and the upland forest.  Stepping into the forest he spotted a coil of rope hanging on a limb where it had been placed at least 16 years prior.  Clearing the salal that choked the path to the rope and another 5 – 10 meters of trail to the west he entered Higgins Pass Camp. 

Based on photos and the description provided by Glenn this camp was atypical in several respects of the camps Bill used during his latter years.  Awkward and tide dependent beaches were not uncommon in Bill’s choices but this one seemed particularly tough.  It is steep and bony making landings and boat handling difficult.   Lagoon access is limited by tides.  Recall that I was there with an ebbing 2.1 meter tide and had to leave before I was stranded by the falling water level.  The camp seems to have been located far enough off of a normal choice for a beach that nobody would look there.  When I took the photo of the clam garden below I had no idea that Bill’s camp was hidden in the clump of trees on the upper left. 

 Higgins Lagoon Clam Garden 2017

Billy’s journals make it clear that Higgins Pass Camp was a critical location in his plans.  Strategically, it was ideal for crossing Laredo Sound to or from Aristazabal and beyond.  It wasn’t a place where he camped for a night before continuing on.  This was a place where he spent time. 


Why did he choose a location that was made inaccessible by tides?

Was it just another brick in the wall that he built to isolate himself from the rest of the world?

A place that nobody was going to find?

Maybe.

Lagoon Beach at 3.7M Tide
image by Glenn Lewis

 Step and entry to the camp is on the left of the Alder Tree
image by Glenn Lewis

Atypical Camp Detail
image by Glenn Lewis


Fire Stand
image by Glenn Lewis

Why don’t the rocks and wooden components show more evidence of smoke? 

I hope to visit in July 2020.  Maybe some questions will be answered.

Continued..........

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