Posted with permission - This was originally posted at WashburneMarine.com by Randy Washburne - I have reformatted Randy's original post to work with my blog format. In so doing I have attempted to retain all of the original look and feel including punctuation. My only revisions were to update a couple of website links that were out of date.
Randel Washburne
Randel Washburne
Copyright 2007
The
Burnett Bay Cabin Journals
In 1985 I built this little cabin hidden in the salal at the
north end of Burnett Bay. Doug Simpson of Feathercraft Kayaks was the first to
discover it, and others followed, most led to it by tips from other paddlers.
Within a few years, a ziplock full of scraps of notes had become several
notebooks filled with the entries of kayakers and canoeists, as well as pilots
who land wheeled planes on the beach.
What follows is some high-grading from the journal entries
from digital photos from its pages. It isn’t a complete record. Some of the
older ones have been lost, and transcribing all of them is too much. I’ve
omitted shorter entries in which people basically just recorded being there.
Some I was unable to read completely from my photos of the pages, so the (?)’s
indicate what I couldn’t decipher. Each paragraph represents a separate entry,
and I’ve kept them more or less chronological. With some arbitrary exceptions
I’ve included only first names. Thanks to those who have photographed and send
me journal entries since my last visit.
1985
Aug 20
We arrived here by kayak after an overnight visit at Egg Isl. Traveling down to
Port Hardy from Bella Bella, via Goose, Calvert. Enjoyed the view of your
wonderful cabin from our tent. How do you feel about others using it? Do you
know the history of other cabins here? We’d like to know if you are a kayaker
too if you feel like leaving us a note. We find ourselves wishing you were here
to tell us the story of your building, even though the solitude and this beach
and a half was a paradise to enjoy alone. Doug Simpson and Susan Charnock,
Feathercraft Kayaks.
Dec
8-11 Dear Randy,
Ah hah!
We know who you are now. This time I’m with Willi. Beautiful weather. Cold
nights, clear bright days. This cabin is superb. Thanks, Doug Simpson,
Feathercraft Kayaks
The
brushwood, though cut for fuel, is beginning to bud. Boncho
1987
June 24
Hi Randy (we assume),
We
arrived at your cabin the evening of June 22 in heavy surf approx. 10:30 pm.
Our landing was hard on one of our kayaks, breaking a rudder cable. Narrowly
missing rocks out front and unable to see the beach due to light we pulled our
boats ashore.
Still
buzzing we searched for a place for the tent. Was then that we realized we
pulled up in your drive-way. After saying “hi” to your house and telling it we
are friendly we realized it was alone. So putting all morals aside we decided
to give it some company for three nights and two days. Being the only “hotel”
as we called her we stayed at since leaving Vancouver over a month ago.
Your
stove pipe had collapsed over the winter so we devised a reasonably safe
alternative for a small fire.
We
stole a little of your wire to fix the rudder cable. Hopefully both parties are
happy with this gift.
Being a
cabinet maker and my brother a carpenter we’ve marveled at your craftsmanship.
The “hotel” is beautifully simple. The setting spectacular “har-ray” for
unconventional shelter!
This is
one of many stops on our route to Alaska via the Queen Charlottes. You’ve made
our stay here quite comfortable and we thank you! Steve and Scott, N. Vancouver
So I wrote this notice and hung it on a nail above the
stove:
NOTICE.
This cabin was built by a kayaker for anyone who paddles, rows, or swims along
this coast. As builder I have NO proprietary feelings here (guess I enjoy the
building as much as staying) – this place is everybody’s. I haven’t been back
here for two years. The stovepipe is in its last stages of life, so be very
careful and keep a small fire. Pass the word south for someone to bring up four
lengths of 4” stove pipe and an elbow when they come here! Take the pipe down
(new pipe, that is, don’t disturb this) and cover the hole when departing and
it will last much longer. (Audrey
Sutherland later added more instructions in a tiny hand, no longer legible)
1988
June
12-16 Paddled from Port Hardy via Deserters Group. Having a cabin is wonderful!
I brought the lengths of 4” stovepipe and a cap, but didn’t know about the
elbow so it is still a makeshift. I’ll take down the top section when I leave
and cover the hole.
A fire
is laid ready to light in case you arrive cold and wet. There’s a lighter and
some tea in the cupboard. I laid a new
floor, scrounging 2-by lumber from the far reaches of the beach. It isn’t
nailed down. The owner should approve first. For nailing, there is a vertical
strip of 1-by at 2’ intervals. There also is a layer of black plastic on the
ground under the 1-bys to keep out the damp. Of nailing in, shove it all toward
the door to close any cracks.
The
door was binding and I put a spacer under the top hinge and waxed it. Now it
neither squeaks nor binds, and the sliding bolt fits better.
Cleared
some brush, planted some ferns, stacked lumber, and brought in firewood. The stream to the north is a good little one.
Not much rain as glad not to be dependent on catchment.
Leaving
Thursday the 16th, weather permitting, for Bella Bella, solo, in my inflatable
Semperit kayak. Great cabin. We need another one twenty miles north! Kayakers
could maintain them. Audrey Sutherland, Haleiwa, HI
1990
May 22
En route from Port Hardy north, going toward Ketchikan, going as far as the
boat, the body, and the weather permit. Today 30 knots from the SE. Yesterday
25 knots from the N. Tomorrow?
Great
to read all your notes.
New
elbow installed and spare under the bunk.
The
strange piece of plywood on the woodpile is a mast step/foot brace. Decided it
was more liability than asset. Use that nice 7 ply mahogany if you can or feed
it to the fire.
That
dead tree by the back right corner is a worry. Could two strong guys with ropes
pull it down and over away from the cabin? I didn’t dare try.
This
place is always the high point of the trip. Only twice now but sure looked
forward to it and hate to leave. “Once upon a time there was a tiny magic cabin
in the forest and…” Audrey Sutherland Kayak “Diodon” (the balloon fish)
Aug 9
We are rowing (two 15 foot rowboats with sliding rigging) from Skagway to
Seattle.
Seen
some outstanding wildlife, met people that we will remember forever, and had
some great experiences. Not that I would want to repeat every day, but the trip
has been much more than I expected.
Tonight
we dined on some wonderful sockeye given to us by a kind Canadian fisherman.
Although I have gotten real attached to our mildewed, bug squashed tent, it is
so nice to sleep in this jewel of a cabin. Life is very good today.
Thank
you unknown kayaker and builder of this cabin. (aka Randy?) Sue and Wayne,
Corvallis, OR
Sept 24
Came by to visit an old camping spot and lo! A beautiful ‘nother cabin – recognizable
– again [?] off to the cabin maker! The new (11th?) commandment – kayakers:
“Thou shalt not travel without a length of 4” stovepipe”.
I had
put in to John’s creek and left a stash or oats, rice, [?] in there if anyone
needs (extreme S end of beach). Replaced window, etc. South now to Sointula.
Stewart Marshall
1991
Aug 1-5
Arrived by inflatable 13’ kayak. Same boat since 1984. Now has about 4000 miles
under the hull in Alaska, BC, Ireland, Norway, Scotland, and its home Hawaii.
Cabin
in good shape except for the torn window over the door, Replaced it from
supplies under the bunk. I nailed on covers that can be easily removed while
you’re here.
One
third of the forest between cabin and west beach has been denuded. Quite a
storm in from the sound last winter.
Yes the
green foam mattress and the iron skillet belong at John’s cabin. Someone said
he has given it up and moved to the Prince Rupert area.
And
hello to Stewart Marshall, an new user and maintainer. Doug, I’ll probably see
you in Vancouver as I think this paddler has a few more years to go than the
old faithful boat does.
Wally
and Heather from Saltspring Island in a 19’ canoe paddled in from Bella Bella
and camped down past the river.
If you
find a suitable piece of plywood you might cover the west window before the
winter.
A poor
vintage year for dimensional lumber. A bit at the SE end of the beach.
Wolf
tracks here the length of the beach the first morning but none since. One black
tailed deer, flocks of ruddy (black?) turnstones, two gray whales, eagles, two
ospreys, ravens, banana slugs, and is it the winter wren who twitters unseen?
Leaving
Monday morning heading for Shelter Bay, the Deserters, Port Hardy. Then the
ferry to Prince Rupert and paddle to Ketchikan.
Last
year with more time I went from Port Hardy not only toward but to Ketchikan, a
fine trip of 400+ miles then out along the east coast of Dall Island, a place
of williwaws.
This
time more exploration of Fillmore Inlet, Nekat Bay, and Boca de Quadra. Boat,
seas, and wind willing. Audrey Sutherland
1992
May 25
Kathy and I ended up staying five days – turns out I finally blew something in
my back after paddling a double by myself and hauling 60 lbs of camera gear and
a 10 lb tripod through the rainforest and beach rocks. But what a place to let
the tendons heal! Kathy took a walk with two deer yesterday, staying within 50’
of them until the small creek south of here – that had her bouncing all day.
Weather’s been great, lots of sun and great clouds, cheesy sunsets, and a
beautiful moon. The cabin is perfect. And built by a paddler to boot!
On the
way down we met a 30’ boat called “Baidarka”. The owner (can’t remember his
name) is working with George Dyson to establish a string of campsites and/or
cabins from Seattle to Glacier Bay. He has been getting organized to approach
the US gov. for funding, but didn’t mention the Canadian gov.
The
object of the project is to establish camps for sea kayakers.
We left
a tarp, seam sealer, a spatula, and some sno-seal toward the cause… Murray and
Kathy
Greetings
Cabin Denizens, We surfed our kayaks in here yesterday under a bright, blazing
sun. Our friend Jim had already arrived earlier in the day due to us being
gobbled in the ebb just past the Fox Group. This cabin is really funky – yet
another reason for us to stay an extra day. If only someone were able to leave
an old surf or boogie board here. We body surfed near the N curve of the bay
and got some awesome rides. Kudos to all who have made it to this area in the
past and will do so in the future. You are walking a groovy path! Jason
It
would be nice to spend more time here but the northward urge is pulling us on!
I could easily find myself happily stuck here for weeks if I didn’t have the
idea of a trip to Alaska stuck in my head. The cabin is telling me to mellow
out, but I’m curious to see the rest of the coast. Luckily everybody who has
been here makes me feel welcome to return. I’ll see you soon! Robson
Burnett
Beach had a high recommendation and it far exceeded it. We watched osprey
catching sole in the surf, grey whales feeding offshore, an adult and a young
peregrine falcon chasing shorebirds and gulls on the beach, and followed wolf
tracks all the way to the small river estuary. We also seem to have hit the
first big wave of fall shorebird migration – in the last few days the number s
of sandpipers has swelled from a few to MANY. Mainly westerns, a few least,
some semi palmated plovers, and a small flock of (?). We are leaving a
half-dozen candles and a small crab trap for the cabin. Good paddling to all.
Ken and Dana
Aug 7-9
Arrived by kayak around noon and set up camp on beach in front of cabin. We
decided to stay put for a couple of days because of the continuing southerly
winds and rain. We’re on our way from Hakai to Port Hardy, so southerlies are
not appreciated. While here, we’ve hiked to the other end of the beach and
back, flown our kites, read our books, watched the whales, and generally just
relaxed.
We’ve
added a few touches to this cabin: candles, wood floats, an oar and broom from
our beach-combing, and a mobile which Jean made. We’ve also left some wood we
gathered from the beach. We hope it stays dry for the next traveler(s).
It was
fun visiting this special cabin and reading the entries of everyone, a few of
whom we know or have heard of. We’re off to an early start in the morning
(southerlies or not!). No doubt we’ll be back. Thanks to everyone who has
helped to keep this cabin a safe haven for weary and wet travelers. Jean and
Steve, N. Vancouver
[…] For
me its as though I’ve finally found “home” after so many, many years of
looking. I will leave a part of my soul here and will return to the “unreal”
world clutching a bit of this place to my heart – a sort of talisman against
the “craziness” out there. Thank you little cabin and all of you, my companions
on journey of life! The Pacific Coast book is my humble offering to the spirit
of adventure/exploration/discovery and knowledge here. Thank Audrey for the tip
on this place. Jim, kayak “Ghost”, Eureka, MT
1993
June 27
Thanks for the info about your cabin. Been raining everyday but not yet today.
This would be snug in bad weather. Camped at the far end (and I mean FAR!) of beach. Tom Steinburn, Lee/Judy Moyer,
Ken/Angie Green
July 2
Beautiful sunny day then a tad hazy but what the … I’ve been in this area
(Bella Bella on down) for 3 weeks and it has rained everyday, sometimes 36-48
hours straight so I can deal with a little haze.
Great
hotel here folks. Heard about it from Audrey Sutherland. Thanks for the secret info
kiddo. I’m the fellow who cornered you at Ecomarine with all the charts of this
area. You gave me a wealth of information that would have taken me years to
organize – all in 10 minutes.
Alas I
babble – haven’t talked to anyone in 3 weeks so I’ll shut up and leave some
space here for someone else. Hope to be able to leave something useful here in
the cabin, in return for its comfort and coziness – found a Scotty pump we
kayakers use. I’ll leave that. WMP, Vancouver
4 July
Another sunny day – yesterday too. Last nights full moon had me jogging naked
in the surf at midnight. Had moonlight bouncing off the waves east bound and
bioluminescence on the return trip. Very therapeutic – I highly recommend it.
Heading for Shelter Bay in early AM. Hope to be on the water by 6am so
nity-nite for now. PS I’m stealing some sand as a souvenir. WMP
9 July
Forget that. It’s too nice here. Besides, there are gale force winds out there
– been here since Monday morning. Nice and sunny thought. …
“Cabin
Builder” returns after five years absence! Can’t believe its been so long. I am
pleased to find the place in such good shape and to see that so many people
have enjoyed it through the years. Traveling solo, it feels really
companionable to read the log and see the touches, big and small (Audrey’s
especially), and offerings left behind. Anyhow on my way from Bella Bella to Pt
Hardy via W Athelone, Goose I., Triquet I, and west Calvert. Had a fantastic
sail (in my kayak) down Calvert before NW wind, made it all the way from Pruth
Bay to Grief Bay in a day and still had time to tack into the bays and land
here and there. Hard to stop for long when the wind says let’s go! I think I’ll
write some stories and ideas about the cabin and beach on a separate sheet
(save space here) and put it in the archives. We desperately need a stove
replacement. Don’t know when I’ll get back up here, so I’ll write some ideas
for building a simple breakdown one to bring up in a kayak. Randy
Its
foggy out. I can’t see my friends. I feel all alone, peaceful and safe. Robson
told me about this place. Told me to say hello for him. I knew it had to be
…How to describe a place like this? A place I’ve been looking for. Thanks for
the cabin and especially the archives. Your spirit of adventure and discovery
is contagious. Dominique
Sept 13
Checking out Smith Sound and the NW coast down to Hardy. This place stirs the
kayak blood making me want to see the whole NW coast. Arrived to Burnett on a
glittering sunny evening greeted by whales. Enjoyed the magic of watching
northern lights in the sky. Hope to be back soon. Thanks for this special place
– good to know its here. Natasha
Sept 13
There is no other place I’d rather have a birthday, 26 now. The gang is camped
down at the south end near the estuary. Paddled up to the other cabin at high
tide, beautiful place. We were here last summer too but the cabin here was
occupied by another solo kayaker. Goodbye for now, expecting to be back in the
future. Rob
My
second visit to the bay. The most beautiful spot on a coast of beautiful
places. Great to read the words of so many friends in the logbook and to
reflect on the community of paddlers and good souls plying these waters. Grant
Thompson
1994
A real
beach! After the first few days of “barnacle bays”, what a treat! We’re heading
for Ketchikan and I, on to Sitka. That is, if I can improve my camping
efficiency. The first few days of a long trip are always for me, getting
organized, getting down the routine figuring out what to put in which bag, or
in which bag what is! So far this early (May) departure to Alaska is working.
We’re planning on heading up the outer coast rather than the inside passage. I
hope the weather and swell permit a relaxing rather than adrenaline filled
trip. Randy, we failed, we didn’t get your stove to this wonderful cabin.
Fearing huge swell (that did not materialize) we stashed the replacement in the
outer passage at Slingsby Channel. Well, we did haul it 300 miles to just three
short of its destination. We’ll give you the “pirate map” to pas on to another
northbound paddler. Stove pipes pretty moist – end of the season people should
take it down and let the flap down over the hole. Time to move. Enjoy this
wonderful spot. I’m thankful that there are still places like this in the world
– uncontrolled and depending on the cooperation of strangers. Craig
J ust
spent most delightful week here at cabin after kayaking from Pt Hardy to Prince
Rupert (returned on ferry and then back up to here). Installing the new stove
was my excuse for returning – but that only took the first afternoon. Sunny and
warm this week, spent very little time in cabin, opting to sleep on beach under
moon and sun. Our paddle north went very well – 29 out of 31 days the wind was
at our back – lots of rain but the sun would make a brief showing before
despair set in. Stayed to the outside all the way but for Banks Island where
multiple gales and storms cooled our jets and sent us to the inside until
Porcher Island. We stopped off at Egg Island light station and met the keepers
there. As they don’t get too many, they enjoy visitors – you might call them on
VHF ch 9 or just drop in. In any case, watch the landing. The little “beach” on
the backside can get nasty! Because of budget cuts this might be the last
season for the lightkeepers; visits help them fight for operation. I’ve added
some new menu items for the mice on the bookshelf just in case corny, WWII
nautical thrillers have grown tiresome to their tiny little palates. A big
thanks to everyone who has taken such excellent care of the cabin. Such
cooperation gives me hope for humanity. Best wishes to all who ply these waters
this summer and fall! (winter?) Happy Bracing, Noel
Sept 5
I’ve been coming here since 1988, and this time brought a log book to tape in
all the assorted notes before and after that summer. Some notes were undated
but are in approximate order. Entries after this date should go in the green
log book. A. Sutherland
Arrived
from Port Hardy in the Banana Slug, a 13’ 1986 model Semperit inflatable kayak,
via Deserters, Shelter Bay, Allison Harbour. Steady rain or headwinds on both.
This boat is truly sluggish, but its safe and reasonably light to carry (33
pounds). I brought four lengths of 4”, foot long stove pipe and installed it. A
great improvement to go with the new stove brought by Noel and Craig. A steady
rain and SE wind. Not unusual after fifteen summers and 7,030 miles on the
coast between Thurlow Island and Skagway with side trips to Dall Island, Sitka,
outer Baranof, Fillmore Inlet. A full gale, 4000 miles, 9 bear tooth holes, and
ten years of UV rays finally did in my fast and faithful 83 model Semperit.
When leaving the cabin always use the outside ladder and remove the top section
of stove pipe and cap and store them inside. Cover the hole with the metal flap
and weight it down. In September always cover the front window with shakes.
Side window too, for winter north winds. Aloha to old friends and new ones.
Wonderful to read the story in the archives of the building of this place.
Audrey Sutherland
1995
Arrived
from Blunden Harbour in rain and wind by rowing dory (designed and built by
me). Started in Vancouver and headed north til I get tired of it. I am mildly
surprised to be here for three days and not see any other kayakers. I cleaned
up the “semi-mouse proof” cupboard – all food left here should be in tins or
suspended. I will try to get off the beach tomorrow on the 5 am high tide. If
the surf isn’t too radical – I must be careful, I’ve already broken one oar in
the tidal rapids at the mouth of Blunden Harbour lagoon. Now only have one
spare – I’ll carve another oar or two in Bella Bella. Happy Paddling. Dennis
En
route from Bella Bella to Port Hardy via west side of Athlone, Goose, Triquet,
outside Calvert Island. Wonderful place to spend three days before finishing a
super trip. Off to Slingsby and Schooner Channels, then home. Thanks to Randy
and the rest of you. Added Medicine for Mountaineers to the library. Kent, Tom
& Yvonne
I, the
city slicker, six years ago married an avid kayaker, so here I am at Burnett
Bay in my own low-volume Enetai kayak. It was quite an experience paddling from
Allison Harbour to Burnett. Huge swells. Beautiful weather (til today, raining)
and wonderful place, gorgeous beach, peaceful, quiet, etc. But, the obese mouse
that some kind person trapped in June of this year, left several children and
they all dine on paper (prefer magazines to paperbacks), tinfoil, plastic, or
anything we leave behind. It seems a good idea to not leave anything behind.
Gunvor (my wife)
Spent a
nice week after arriving in big swells – three days of sun, one of drizzle, and
one of actual storm (winds to 50 kts), rare for this season. Spent most of the
time building the outhouse. Lots of osprey out on the beach and wrens in the
bushes. Things look really good at the cabin and as usual the beach is beyond
what I remembered. Left new stovepipe but not installed (save til needed).
Randy
1996
Jan 27
Stopped once again, and we’re on new spotter course. Weather great. Mike says
he’ll stay over. I see we still need 4” stove pipe. Bill Velie, Port McNeill
Jun 21
Had a leisurely trip up from Port Hardy starting June 14. Stayed the first 3
nights in the [?] Islands. Great little beach with white sand and island to
walk around, not much fresh water. Lots of eagles and river otters. Next 4
nights on a rock beach with small boulder cover somewhere south of Shelter Bay.
Pulled in out of large waves and headwinds into what turned out to be a great
place to stay. Lots of walkable rocks and log beach and a strong running stream
with fresh water pools in the sun. Next to Skull Cove for 2 nights. Buggy
campsite but great area to explore on day paddles. Met some whale researchers
setting up their summer camp. Will be there through Sept. They’re working on
getting that area established as a marine reserve to protect gray whale feeding
grounds as many are staying for the summer and not going farther north. They’re
trying to keep out a proposed recreational lodge and some fish farms. Next stop
this beach. Wow, wish we’d gotten here sooner so could spend more time. Came in
on flat calm water at Evader Creek set up camp and next morning followed 2 sets
of wolf tracks to this end of the beach and now the cabin. Lots of whale
activity in the bay yesterday. Got buzzed by a helicopter flying at about 300
feet the full length of the beach. Was hoping to see some wildlife. If anyone
knows of any efforts to protect this area from commercial exploitation
including fly-in tour groups please let me know. Lets hope it doesn’t change
too much. Heading for Pt Hardy tomorrow. Will try to visit again in Sept.
Really enjoyed reading the log books. Will bring another next visit. Scott, Oak
Harbor, WA PS Just walked the beach north to the farthest point you can see
from here. Really great. There’s usually an animal trail.
June 24
We didn’t stay in the cabin on these blowing yet sunny days in late June, but
it is heartening and amusing to find this seaside sanctuary. I feel kinship
with the people who have stayed here. I like many of you shall return to these
shores – in person, and in my dreams. How did all that sand get up there? [?]
(A solo
canoeist traveling to Alaska with his dog): Charlene is sprightly now, running
lightly through the surf line, occasionally leaping toward the sun to celebrate
the joy of the day. Suddenly the impact of it all strikes me; the absolute
conveyance of mind, body, and spirit. With energy charged, I lift up the
perfect stick of cedar, arc it back over my head, and throw it down the surf
line as far as I can…with a surge of energy Charlene bounds up on her hind
legs, tracks the stick in the air, then charges down the beach to snap up the
stick in her jaws on the second bounce. Moments to treasure. Don
Watching
a grey whale feeding off the beach while writing. A wonderful place! We started
at Port Hardy and will go to Indian Cove and return. Thick fog when we left
Shelter Bay but it cleared at Skull Cove and the wind died off for a nice
paddle up to here. As one who is new to the sport I am amazed at the great
kayaking community out there and the trips people do along the coast. I hope
this area is kept in pristine condition for future low impact users. Met a
Tofino Expeditions group, one plane on the beach, and the SURF group studying
grey whales from Skull Cove. Bob and Steve
On our
way from Bella Bella south around Cape Scott and down, hopefully to Victoria.
So far we’ve been too wrapped up in the trip logistics to appreciate our
connection to the “Earth”, but the log book here at least made us feel at one
with the community of kayakers. Like many of you, we were hoping to make this
trip on two levels – physical and personal/spiritual/philosophical. What we
think we’ve learned at this point is that too much emphasis on the
geographical(?) journey interferes with the personal journey. Maybe you have to
slow down to get anywhere that matters! Take a break from the obsessions with
when to paddle, how far to go, and all the accompanying concerns (my dad in the
run-up to our departure, said that what people fear most is discomfort. He’s
probably right at least as regards me.)
I’m
reading Walden, by Thoreau, and quite enjoying it. All the more so through
seeing these cabins, especially the one at the far south end where John
actually lived – I fancy – the simple life endorsed by Thoreau. My favorite
quote from Walden so far, for those of you who haven’t read it, is:
“By a
seeming fate, commonly called necessity [most people] are employed…laying up
treasures which mold and rust will corrupt and thieves break through and steal.
It is a fool’s life, as they will find when they get to it, if not before.”
For all
you closet cabin-builders, however, I should quote:
“Who
knows but if men constructed their dwellings with their own hands, and provided
for themselves and families simply and honestly enough, the poetic faculty
would be universally developed, as birds universally sing when they are so
engaged?”
Sadly,
though, we have become so specialized in society that we contract our even our
singing and dancing and sports to “professionals” (and labour ourselves to pay
them for these services!!)
Jerry
has been reading about Joseph Campbell, who, in his younger days, spent 5 years
living alone in the woods (also doing a lot of reading!). He offers you this:
“If you
follow your bliss, you will always have your bliss, money or not. If you follow
money, you may lose it, and you will have nothing.”
Wishing
you calm waters and happy paddling.
Julie & Jerry
Greetings
again little cabin. You and I first met in July 1992. I was headed north to
Alaska. After a most interesting summer that year, I’d in fact made it to
Juneau. This year, I am traveling south and on only a 10 or 12 day journey from
Finn Bay to Port Hardy. I have my wife Susan with me this time. She was only an
undefined dream back then. Now she is reality and its my sublime pleasure to
share with her some of my magic moments and placed I’d experienced. We’ve been
to Fury Island, Cranstown Point, the Golden Sand Beach, around the cape, and
walked this beach, experiencing the pleasure of place and one another. You,
little cabin, are wonderful as always. Never change. Always be here, for the
next time! To all our fellow paddlers, rowers, etc, once again hello. It is a
great pleasure and honor to meet you here through these pages once again. And,
to one special one who also loved me, maybe still does, you’ve been on my mind
since the moment I set foot on the beach. Your spirit pervades the place and
everywhere where the wind meets the sea and the sea meets the land. Jim &
Susan
The authors of “Homelands: Kayaking the Inside Passage”: We are on our way to Port Hardy via the
route many people in the log have taken – Shelter Bay and Deserter Island.
Thankful for the advise. We’ve been paddling since April 13. Started in Glacier
Bay, and then have paddled SE through Hoonah, Tenakee Springs, Angoon, Kake,
Wrangell, Ketchikan, Prince Rupert, Bella Bella, here. We recommend the Tenakee
Portage and Rocky Pass. Our summer has been filled with unexpected delights and
challenges and I’m sure they’ll continue as we make our way to Nisqually Delta,
south. This cabin has been one of the delights. We are proud to be part of the
kayaking crew along the coast, and enjoying places like this that are hard to
get to. Make sure to look for a book by Byron coming out in 1998 by Scribners
Publishing of New York. Book about (?) and natural history of the coast as we
experienced it (not a guide book). Maren VanNostrand and Byron Ricks
On a
trip north to Alaska from Bellingham. Just finished the outside of Vancouver
Island. Saw lots of grey whales feeding off sand beaches and even just off
shore of the Storm group. Had mostly NW winds and hot sun until now, overcast
but not too windy. Great hut! Glacier Bay here I come! Mariner II Rules! Mike
Hello
again. It has been a few years and things have remained wonderfully unchanged –
a huge thanks again to the builder and various caretakers of the cabin. Three
years ago it was this very site (and many of the notes in the logbook) that
inspired the creation of the BC Marine Trail Association and for that reason
(as well of course the bay’s incredible scenery and this cabin’s amazing sense
of warmth) this place will always be very close to my heart. It’s great to see
so many members of the association in this log. Sorry to have missed you Jim –
it was only by two days. For those who don’t know about the Marine Trail
organization, it is comprised of a group of paddlers who are trying to protect
and help care for many of the valuable camping sites along the coast. Not every
site will have a cabin, or be as magnificent as this one, but when completed
paddlers can be assured of an unbroken string of sites along the whole coast.
Your help in this endeavor would be greatly appreciated … Anyways, after a few
days of surfing and relaxing it is now time to move on and continue this
journey from Rupert to Vancouver. I hope to see it all again soon! Pete McGee
After a
week on this fabulous beach, we move on, south from Prince Rupert. A great
cabin, an amazing spot to remember. Look back at times like this, and I hope to
return. For all you that stay here in the future, enjoy it. I for one, won’t
forget. Ian, Vancouver
Sept 22
Four paddlers up from Port Hardy and [?] Islands. Tried to land in very heavy
surf conditions at south end of beach. All four capsized in deep water. We all
made it in between 5 and 10 minutes later. Two boats damaged, one badly and one
person with badly torn finger from hanging onto rudder cable in surf. Had to
call Pt Hardy for rescue boat that picked him up at this end of the beach in
much reduced surf conditions approx 8 hours after capsize at approx 1am. I, we
made many mistakes and learned many lessons, too many to list here but one was
we arrived late and tired which combined with a strong desire to be here led to
very bad judgment as to what were acceptable surf conditions. I never thought
I’d use my radio but will never paddle without one again. It worked great from
here on high power. Always wear your PFD!
The
broken boat is at the south end of the beach. I’ll return next spring to fix it
and two it home after a good long stay on this beautiful beach. Had 3 days of
mixed rain and sun breaks, then today clear blue sky and hot sun with lite west
wind. Plan to move south tomorrow if conditions are good. We love this place.
Happy and safe paddling Scott
Sept 22
I came here with my brother and two other paddlers. He’s explained the gist of
our misadventure – our “landing” in his entry. What he does not mention,
perhaps from not wanting to relive the horror of that situation, was that I was
the only one not wearing my PFD when we attempted the landing. I won’t go into
the details, but I spent 15-20 minutes being pummeled by breakers and dragged
around by the currents. That I am here to write in this log is a miraculous
event.
There
is no way to over-estimate the power and unpredictability of the surf here,
particularly near high tide. Land at one far end of the beach or the other.
Don’t under-estimate conditions – prepare for the worst. If you have an easy
landing you can forget about it and enjoy Burnett Bay’s wonders and beauty. If
conditions turn sour, which can’t always be judged from the water, God and your
PFD may be the only things that allow you to enjoy this place or anything again.
My love
and best wishes to you all, Burr
(This accident was written up in Sea Kayaker magazine, I
think in 97)
1997
June 9
The first here this year. Your world here is a magical place. We dropped off
some canned food in case anyone is ever in need. Any one who has such refined
craftsmanship would surely enjoy a good can of salmon. It’s now 10:30 at night
and we must head – too bad we didn’t have time to explore here today. Your
cabin sparks our imagination and our dreams. Charlie and Lindsay
June 15
I was with Scott and Burr (see Sept 96) last year – I gave the surface of one
finger to the south beach. A testament to the power of the ocean. A word of
caution for the day that goes a little too long, and attitude that is a little
too anxious. I return this year to thank
the beach and my friends for coming back. This includes Bob who I’ve paddled
with in Baja, Canada, Lake Superior. Lets do it yearly. Tim, San Francisco
June 29
Fourth time past but first time I’ve stopped. Nice to see the community spirit
behind the messages and the building. I agree with Haddington John – its
getting crowded along this coast. I hope Randel’s idea of a coastal trail
doesn’t mean a new group of travelers who can get here more easily but may not
have the time to develop the sense of community. Don’t destroy what we all
love, the wild coast. May the winds be fair and at your back. Chris, Hornby
Island
Once a
cabin builder always a cabin builder. Heard about the cabin with wooden hinges
from Rob and Loren years ago. It has been long overdue, but always better late
than never. Love it all, the powerful waves impossible to grasp, the beige
sand, white wood and green lush forests. Love the cabin. Martin (cabin builder,
not this one though)
6/23 We
are two kayakers, surfed in last night after making the crossing from Bull
Harbour. Landed mid-afternoon dog tired and hungry – made dinner and crashed
for a 3 hr nap in your bunk – crafted perfectly for my 6’4” frame. Your clean
and tidy cedar palace was a treat on this drizzly night. We can see that much
care and hard work has been seen in this hut and plan to leave it just as we
found it. We are off to Alaska on a summer adventure.
I wish
you many cozy evenings reading by the fire. Owen[?] and David, Seattle
Arrived
last night in fairly calm seas, but never cease to respect the power and (?) of
this place. The beach is beyond words. I am in awe. Last night was clear, no
wind and we sat around the camp fire excitedly admiring the dancing lights of
the aurora borealis. Amazing, magical place. Enjoying it fully. Loved reading
the journal. Jennifer
Aug 5
As I’m sitting here listening to the surf pounding against the beach I can’t
think of a better place to be. Thank you for taking the time and care to build
such an interesting place. Is it true that everything you need you brought in
your kayak? As for the beach may it remain in its present state – relatively
untouched. Both nights I’ve been here whales have been playing in the surf at
sunset. The [?] speaks for itself. On my way south from here and toward the
land of built up beaches. Since Prince Rupert I’ve seen some amazing beaches,
yet this has been the best. Thanks again, Bruce
Aug 25
First time here, camped at south end of beach by estuary. Awesome place, big
swells and the reef offshore is amazingly powerful – happy to land and set up
camp! John, Squamish, BC
Wonderful
to find a piece of tranquil paradise in this busy overrun world and to read of
previous visitors to this cabin who have put their heart and soul into
maintaining it. Hope to return one day
again and see it again…off to look for whales and beach treasures. Lia alias
Queen Mom
What
was to have been a brief stop, snack, and stretch turned into a hostage
situation: I became captive to the long, sunny crescent of sand, the whales
splashing their massive flukes offshore, the eagle and osprey that glide
overhead, the loon bobbing in the swell, plovers and sandpipers probing for
lunch, and the river otter that ambled from driftwood across the sand and into
the surf. I gladly delayed my solo trip northward to spend the day in such fine
company. A fine cabin too. Thanks to all who take care of it. Gary
1998
We must
be the first ones here this year. Saw footprints in the sand but haven’t seen a
person for two days. On our way from Port Hardy to Hakai Reserve and ? We have
had two perfect days. How could they not be in a place like this. Long walks
and lots of solitude. It is good to know that places like this still exist.
Didn’t stay in the cabin but what a great idea. Terry
Hi
Randy and others, we hope that this note finds you in sunny weather. We held
off our departure in Pt Hardy for two days because of solid rain and fog.
Departed under grey skies and lingering fog and fingers crossed. Arrived at
Deserters, the cabin is going back to the bush. Saved by the clippers, we cut
out a tent site. Next Allison Harbour, a welcome spot in a tough coast line for
camping. Crossed Slingsby on a lingering ebb and west swells and the ride got a
little hairy. We will work harder on current predictions. So as not to
experience that beast again! Arrived here about 2pm yesterday. The grey skies
cleared and the beach sparkled as we made a smooth landing at high tide. Your
cabin and a bagel with cheese and cucumber sandwich never sounded so good. The
cabin is in great shape. This is a very special and magical place. We enjoyed
all the amenities. Leaving tomorrow for Juneau in our Libra XT “Mehana” (Warmth
of the Sun) Matt and Emily from HI
What a splendiferous little slice of heaven
this is! On our way down from Bella Bella, with amazingly calm conditions today
rounding Cape Caution – we paddled so close I could’ve hit the light with a
yogurt-covered raisin. Blessed are we of small and simple paddle craft. Safe
travels and fair seas to all who pass this way…Bruce
Stopped
here on our honeymoon. Thought at first that the cabin was Kayak Bill’s. It is
so interesting to converse in this way with other who have been to this
beautiful beach and others who will be here. (?) and Jennifer
To
savour places like Burnett Bay is to believe that all is really well with the
world. Judi
A
perfect sanctuary on a long, long trip. I remember listening to an aged Tibetan
monk who had one thought to impart to me and that was that we all want
happiness, and happiness is brought about by abundance, and abundance is the
result of generosity. Thanks to the generosity of spirit of all who sustain
this cabin. Derek
Back
again after another three year absence. Things still look in good shape, except
that the stove is inoperable due to lack of a serviceable elbow. Someone
(perhaps those of you from nearby who fly in regularly), please bring us a
4-inch elbow and some more pipe! This journal is now the jewel of this place.
So many people have contributed their spirits, and you’re all here now! Maybe
these little books are the best evidence to advocate keeping the bay as it is –
if we got a public official who was to make some decision about Burnett Bay to
read
this,
how could he do otherwise! To all of you, thank you. Anyhow, thanks for sharing
your joys, and in some cases, terrors, in this place. Randy
It’s
been six years since my last (and first) visit, and I’m very happy to be back,
this time with my good friends, Ken and Rob. We arrived in a mild northwestery
and paddled our kayaks easily into shore between the two islands. We set up
camp near the entrance to the cabin trail. We noticed that a significant amount
of wood lay unburned on the sand. It would be nice if everyone could burn all
wood to white ash and cover it before leaving. Although it does require effort
we do try and practice no trace camping, and we hope others will do their best
as well. Today we explored toe beach to the river and up to John’s deserted
cabin. I found a glass ball – Yahoo! We saw very little wildlife while we were
here. Tomorrow we head for Shelter Bay, and back to Port Hardy. The cabin is
left in fine shape. Thanks to everyone! Steve
Aug 8
Ocean Falls to Port Hardy. After 2 idyllic weeks paddling the outside islands
and west coast of Calvert we took refuge in this welcoming hut whilst the
storms raged. We have baked cookies and bread whilst remaining warm and dry –
thanks to Randy! Perry, Ian, Heidi, and John PS Every time I feel the dent in
my forehead, I’ll remember this great cabin. JJ
Aug 19
What a magical spot to spend a day and a half. Weather has been glorious in
Burnett Bay and ours a diverse group – Veronica and Conrado from Rome, Kristen
and Tripp from Boulder, Leslie from Portland, Bob from La/Portland/Seattle, Pat
and Russ from St Louis, [?] from CT, Anne from Seattle, and guides Gene and Eric
Aug 19
It’s been a long time coming. It has taken 3 attempts to get here, and today is
the day. The sun is warming the beach as well as the happy feelings I am having
inside. If only everyone in the world could find a place like this in their
lives, life would be so much better.
Cheers
to those who smile as they jump and splash away in the breaking waves of their
own Burnett Bay’s. Eric
8/19
Paradise found! The immense sandy space, wind hammered, shore pine, jewel
bedecked water, continually crashing waves, radiant sun – soul surrendered to
such sights and sounds frees my mind almost enough to “wave” away weighted
worries. Gene “guided” me here – another [?] love chapter – the perfect time to
know that.
The
past is history
The
future is a mystery
The now
is a gift that’s why it’s called THE PRESENT. Love you Gene! Anne
1999
…“Wake
up and live!” Remarkably all those souls who have traveled to this far away
place share that special ingredient so crucial to happiness – we love being in
Nature – which is part of us as a whole. We must pass on this pleasure to those
who are asleep and show them the way – Definitely not to exploit, but to open
their hearts and show how to love and respect their mother earth. Accept all
that is because that’s all it is. Simple, glorious, and ever changing.
Rick
May 26
I begin this journal with disaster narrowly avoided. The charred marks on the
roof around the stove pipe hole are the result of my attempts of warming the
place up on this chilly day. Unfortunately, although the top of the pipe seemed
tight enough when I assembled it, once heated up it leaned and fell apart. The
rest of the pipe leaned heating the roof; I grabbed the pipe with leather
gloves, which I am now very glad to have brought on this trip and directed the
pipe back out the hole while Doug put the fire out. I’m very sorry for my carelessness;
and I’m glad for a the responsible users before me that this cabin still
stands. Luckily lessons were learned and the cabin remains intact for you who
are reading this. Use CAUTION and think twice about having a fire. Most of all
be sure if you do, that things are truly tightly fit and be prepared.
That
said, we are Russ and Doug, out for 4 months paddling from Port McNeill to
Skagway, Alaska. We have been out 10 days, having taken a leisurely pace
through the Broughton Archipelago and now moving northward. Yesterday we came
from Shelter Bay. Russ
That
fire was a little scary. Please use caution, and have water handy. I can’t tell
you all how great is to be able to stay in a place of such great community. I
feel very luck to be here, and share reading about all your experiences. Russ
and I just began our trip to Skagway, and are still getting in the swing of
things. I look forward to all that this regime has to offer as we head north.
Doug
… a
day’s length blanket of thick fog enveloped us as we rounded Cape Caution and
eventually made our way here, to this charmed spot. What a trip its been – so
unlike our previous paddles of the mid-coast. Felt like we learned new lessons
daily on this one. Would love to have seen the “all-seeing eye’s” view of the
time when I sat, blithely searching through food bags for dinner ingredients as
two grizz casually strolled by, not 20 feet from me. Only noticed once they
were well past me, and as I stood, wide-eyed in disbelief to look at them, they
ran off – clearly uninterested in interaction. Their prints in the sand, so
close…Hadn’t seen another paddler in the last 14 days – since we started out –
until yesterday just after we arrived here, and then through the fog emerged a
man who could have been three feet behind us all day and we wouldn’t have known
it. Traveling solo (I’m amazed reading through the wonderful logbooks how many
among us choose this path!), he’s been out for a month, no tide tables, just his
instinct and experience. He was headed for Nakwakto Rapids to catch sight of
this wonder – right up close. We gave him some reading material from Sailing
Directions, which hopefully will have kept him from harm. What a gift its been
arriving here and having the great good fortune to spend a day in the company
of so many beautiful spirits. Its been a joy to read the words of those who
have come before and to do that here in this sweet magical cabin, built and
cared for with such inspiration. I know – I can feel – that I will return here
and Burnett Bay, this cabin, this spirit will all still be here for me to
explore and discover. Thanks to you all that help maintain this beauty. May
this find you all hail, hearty and full of joy as you safely journey through
your adventures. Barb
We
arrived yesterday from Smith Sound. We rounded the cape in dense fog but calm
seas. Our first day in thick fog for the entire trip (started in Bella Bella).
When we arrived the fog was still thick and walking on the beach felt like we
were walking in a surreal and bizarre yet magical landscape. What a place! We
had heard about the cabin from various friends and they all spoke fondly of
this little cabin in the woods. I could never figure out what was so special
but now I know the secret too. I wish I could spend a week here but we must get
back to our lives down south, but I will see this place again and I have faith
that it will still be here – the beautiful forest, the animals, the beach, the
fog, the surf, and the little cabin by the sea. I left an addition to the
library – Homelands: Kayaking the Inside Passage. By Byron Ricks (see 1996
entry). As I am sure Byron will tell you, he found part of himself on this
coast and left part of himself as well. It is a strange feeling to feel so
connected to a place and a group of people after such a short time ashore.
Special place indeed. Steven
Came
here with Ed and Dennis to enlarge and do maintenance on the cabin. Replaced
stovepipe, windows. Added a shed extension to the back to create a double bunk
on the bottom. Storage under the bunk is now from the outside. Left two more
sections of pipe and an elbow for the stove, also some galvanized sheet metal
to reinforce the stove, which is burning out. Thanks to everyone who has been
helping to keep things up. There’s getting to be a lot of stuff hauled up from
the beach left around the cabin and not really useful – please don’t bring any
more. The mice in the cabin aren’t bad right now – guess they’re not finding
much food dropped. Enjoy! PS. – the door hinges are getting weak – don’t lean
on it! Randy
Spent
the last week here on the maintenance with His Coastalness. I found the cabin
cozy, inspired, and a warm break from a further journey. Please watch your fire
usage. This place is fragile in many ways. We saw beautiful kayaking weather,
the time here, many whales, a trip to Indian Cove, bear prints, more whales, good
surfing, fantastic vistas and more places than I care to recount. Heading south
next to Nakwakto, Heard Island, and home to workaday Seattle. I hope your
forecasts are light to moderate northwesterlies and that your skies are full of
sunshine. Dennis
(I
don’t speak French, and parts weren’t clear. But the spirit is nonetheless
infectious):
Joyeux
anniverserie (a moi)
Joyeux
anniverserie (a moi)
Joyeux
Annnniverrrrssairrree
Joyeux
anniverserie (a moi)
Joi 30
ans [?] et je
Suis
ici…ici avec min amor,
Le mer,
la plage, les balines et
Ce
petit cabin extraordinaire
(qun
sent tres hon!) Bon kayaking,
mis
amis, et beaucoups de retournees
Regan,
Seattle
A cet
adorable petit endroit qui flew bon la nature. Cette longue plage est
incroyable et ce petit paradis est enare un endroit protégé de L’homme. Pourvu
Qu’il reste aimi le plus longtemps
possible… Xavier, France
It felt
like an uphill hike, paddling from Grief Bay yesterday. The whales greeted us
as we entered this bay. Mike was two paddle lengths away! It sure is nice to
find a sandy beach to land on once in a while. And now this place – luxury! We
didn’t fix anything cause nothing was broken. Lets hope it stays that way. Keep
yer boats on the water. Steve
Happy
Equinox. Stopped in to say hi to the little cabin. Heading south as far as we
can get, big storm moving in. Paddled outer coast from Bella Bella down, its
been an awesome September. Sad can’t stay on the beach to enjoy. I love reading
the notes so I had to stop in to see who’s been here over the last few years
since my last visit. Happy paddles, Natasha and Jonny-Hawk.
2000
01 01
2000 HAPPY NEW YEAR The new millennium arrived at Burnett Bay under clear blue
skies and brilliant sunshine. Bid mid afternoon (now) the skies are starting to
cloud over and the odd shower is starting to drift through from the south.
Appears to be a system moving in from that direction as the wind is beginning
to increase as well. Today marks the third visit to Burnett Bay for myself
since Christmas. Our weather through the holidays has been beautiful, sunny,
warm, and no wind. Arrived this morning via 1948 Luscombe T8F. Steve, Port
Hardy.
Us and
two other groups landed yesterday intending to stay in the cabin. In all my
times passing through this beautiful remote beach I have never seen 5 groups (4
kayaker and 1 group dropped off by charter boat) camp on the beach at the same
time. Today a research group dropped off three students on the beach who spent
the day studying the small island by the beach. Last night about an hour before
sunset a grizzly bear was coming up the beach from the small creek to the south
of the cabin. When he saw or smelled us, he ran into the woods (be careful
walking the trail to the outhouse at night). Mike from the Vancouver group said
he found references to this cabin on several web sites while researching this
trip. It is interesting noting the prior experiences of other travelers here.
While they (?) on the beauty and peaceful feeling this beach offered to them,
we concerned ourselves with establishing three separate campsites and trying to
respect each group’s privacy. Everywhere we turned around or walked we would
bump into someone. Perhaps this is a precursor of things to come as this site
becomes more popular. I look forward to coming back to this beach again in the
future at a time when I might enjoy the solitude and reinvigoration of the
spirit as the paddlers before us experienced in the journals. So long for now
from the thriving metropolis of North Beach, Burnett Bay, BC. Ray
Twenty
days out, we circle Cape Caution wide in thick fog, rising and falling on grey
swells buffed with blue-edged spangles and at last to Burnett Bay. We know we
have landed, we can feel sand under our feet, but we can see nothing of the
forest and only 20 feet of beach. And here’s the cabin, now with a double bed
and a shed addition, and more journal entries showing how touched everyone is
by the community of friends who never met except in the spirit of this
place….Wishing everyone snug in their beds at journey’s end. Nan and Don
Ahh,
the life of a kayaker -- sitting back on silver-bleached logs sipping a tin-cup
of red wine, enjoying the late evening sun on this beautiful beach. It’s a
tough life! And flipping through these random moments of fellow kayakers’
journeys and thoughts is a wonderful treat. What a great way to have a
conversation over the years! (I particularly enjoyed learning of the troubled
history of the cabin stove!) Kim
I don’t
want to leave this place! But its time to do some surfing on the sanding waves
of Nakwakto. … mother and calf humpbacks feeing all day, a full moon rising
yellow through the trees…I have seen such beauty, but this place is
incomparable! This is the third to last day of my 9 week trip. Tailwinds most
of the way. Yay! I look forward to meeting all of you at sometime in our
journeys. Until then, sunny skies and tailwinds, Colin
Arrived
five days ago to see the cabin again after 15 years…Doug came ashore first, the
rest of us followed one at a time when given the signal. Doug provided me with
an entertaining string of cartwheels as I waited to enter the surf zone. Some
grey whales blessed us with their omnipotent presence. As I write, Doug is
doing some extensive repairs to the stove walls and yesterday replaced the
lower stovepipe. I spent a few hours on the roof as suggested by Audrey S. –
scraping moss and needles off with a pointy wood stick so as not to damage the
soggy shingles. Also went into a tidying frenzy on the woodpile and hammered in
some upright sticks to let air flow along the cabin wall. Hopefully this was a
good idea. There’s one executive decision I’ll discuss with the cabin builder
and that is my removing the little rotting bench on outside west wall. It
looked to me like it was rotting the wall shingles behind it. I’m sure I’ll
regret this if it has some important or nostalgic value. (actually, none of
either– Cabin Builder) There used to be another wonderful gazebo-shaped cabin
at Swan Bay in the Charlottes. In July this year I discovered it is gone, in
addition to another cabin that had a rusty tricycle out front and a huge tree
through the roof…the woman who raised three or four children in this cabin now
has had the distinction somewhat to the effect of being the leading Winnebago
sales person in the US… These are cabins that Parks has removed. They are
missed. We who love this place must not let that happen here. Our heart-felt
blessing for a wonderful and safe trip to all kayakers who pass here as the
adventure and spirit of this place lives on. Susan and Doug
8/31
Gunvor, Annie, Kristen and I met up with Randy, Ed, Dennis, and Jeryl in
Shearwater almost two weeks ago. The flotilla of 8 was colorful and fun. What
terrific traveling companions. Our traditional Kayak Kocktail Hour began our
first night out and continued nearly every night – even after the liquor ran
out. But its been 2 weeks of nearly constant rain. I’d heard so much about this
beach and the cabin that it had become a paradise in my mind. I was so thrilled
to be escorted by grey whales –then to come around the corner to see the sun
shining on the south shore – this really is paradise. I hope to come back one
day. Sue, Snohomish, WA
The
Burnett Bay Song Book
Sung to
“West Texas town of El Paso”:
Down in
the southwestern end of Compania
I fell
in love with a beautiful seal.
Her
eyes were deeper than any deep ocean
Her fur
the softest I ever did feel.
(more
to come)
Sung to
“Bringing In The Sheaves”:
Hauling
shit around
Hauling
shit around
We will
go kayaking
Hauling
shit around
When
the morning comes
And its
time to break down camp
We wish
we had a dolly
We’d
roll it down a ramp
We open
up the hatches
And we
give it all a shove
We do
it every morning
For its
kayaking we love.
Now we
found a new home
We’ll
stay for just one night
The
beach it is deserted
Everything
is right
As we
begin unpacking
It
begins to rain
And we
recall why hauling sh…
Is
really such a pain.
Now the
sun is shining
The sky
it is so blue
We’re
hanging on a sunny beach
There’s
nothing else to do
All our
gear is laid out
In
hopes that it’ll dry
Because
we know tomorrow
We’ll
give it another try.
10 Sept
I’m here too on a trip down from Prince Rupert to Port Hardy. I guess I’ve been
about a week or so behind your group, Randy. I’d love to have met you and
thanked you personally for this cabin and its free use to other paddlers. I’ve
been paddling alone since Princess Royal, when my friends went thru Myers
Passage to Klemtu and I came on down Higgins Passage and through Bella Bella
and on down. Its been wonderful; I notice a lot of entries are a bit sad now,
for Port Hardy is not so far away, and I still don’t want the trip to end
either. The weather’s been varied, but today at the cabin was glorious and its
wonderful sitting here by candle light writing and checking the charts. This
log is a wonderful idea, I see names I’m familiar with and people I know – a
community of paddlers united by the contact through the cabin. Thank you again
for it must be a considerable effort to maintain it so well. Penny, Vancouver
Lots a
whales, eh?
2001
Jan 1
Happy New Year
Our annual
new year flight up to the Beach
Great
day, real big surf! And windy.
Bill
Velie, Port McNeill
April 1
2
Aircraft, half sunny low clouds.
No
fooling…
Bill
Velie
May 20
Back again after four years. Its so heartening to see the spirit of place is so
strong for those who visit. On our way back to Port Hardy from Bella Bella.
Epic rain and wind all the way down but today is light NW with sun. Gracias a
la Vida. Tim
May 20
It is indeed a pleasure to encounter such a magical place. We’ve laid over on the
S end of the beach and enjoyed our best weather since leaving Bella Bella, and
of course the surf. Que bien! Winthrop
May 20
Amazing! 2 months ago I was let to a place like this somewhere in Baja Mexico.
When I arrived there I though I’d never find another like it. And here I am!
Amazing! Great to see the respect and care that people show one another. Thank
you, Thank you! Alberto, Costa Rica
July 6
We are on a relaxing, lazy-paced paddling trip from Smith Sound to Shelter Bay.
Burnett Bay is as lovely as promised. It has been nice to get in out of the
rain and have our lunch in this cabin during our walk down the beach. Ruth,
Vancouver and Adam, Canterbury UK
July 10
Canoe group Burnett Bay to Alert Bay with 6 other. A heavenly spot. Found this
cabin in May 97 on route to Prince Rupert by northwest canoe 31’ [?] Great to
be back. Chris and Barbara
Aug 3-7
85 days of wandering from Pt McNeill north to Prince Rupert and back. A short 5
day break on a secluded beach before returning to a populated world. A bit of
surfing, wood to burn, beaches to roam, and journals to read. A wet year to
wander the coast but one of unforgettable experiences. 20 dolphins jumping out
of the water in Johnstone Strait, getting caught in a pod of 6 killer whales in
a channel near Bella Coola, the islet dotted paddling of Queens Sound and
Calamity Bay, sea otters of the Estevan Group, tossing rocks in a fluorescent
tide in the middle of the night, surfing into Burnett Bay, alongside a feeding
Grey, and discovering this cabin and its journals. My third visit to this beach
but the first to this cabin. Thanks to the SKA people Anne, Heather and Dona
for letting me know of its existence and a fine evening of conversation around
a rather small fire. Steve If you see a buoy on the beach be sure to hang it
from a tree to mark a trail or water!
Aug
8-11 Arrived here on the morning of Aug 8 paddling from our last camp at Indian
Cove, Day 11 of our 18 day trip from McLaughlin Bay to Port Hardy. Three people
camping here when we landed, and another party of three at the south end of the
beach. We have enjoyed our trip so far in spite of 7 days (consecutive) of rain
from Triquet Island to Cranstown Point.
The
weather here has been foggy in the morning with sunshine in the afternoon – but
no rain! We have all enjoyed this beautiful place; walking the beach, exploring
the tide pools and photographing the scenery. This morning we repaired and
reinforced the cabin door, cleaned the roof, and cut back the salal along the
trails; a small contribution to the cabin that many find so useful.
Tomorrow
we continue our journey with a planned camp at Shelter Bay.
For
those not so familiar with this beach there is a freshwater lagoon at the south
end of the beach – very suitable for a bath! If you are interested!! Beautiful
in the mist, too.
Paula and Jiry - Calgary Alta, Jacqueline and
Ton - Lions Bay, BC, Ann - Richmond, BC, Earl - Port Moody, BC, Robert –
Vancouver. All of SKABC
10 Aug
This bay offers many gifts: gray whales spouting in the bay – one showed its
flukes just 1 ½ kayak lengths from Jiri’s bow as we came in; wolf tracks all
along the beach – a pair walking side by side, scratching in the sand by a log
where the male marked his territory; huge bear tracks by the lagoon, and a huge
bear by the creek west of the cabin; deer tracks of a doe and a tiny fawn. Our
own tracks trample the beach, obliterating those of the animals. We move on
tomorrow, leaving the wind and tide to erase the signs of our passing. Letting
the rightful owners of this beach back onto their domain.
I read
in the log the musings of several people I know and feel as though they have
joined me here on this beach – Barb and Steve, Willie, Penny and others. I feel
settled in here and am sad to be departing tomorrow, not having sampled this
place in all her seasons and moods, barely a [?] I want to get to truly know. R
Sept 3
A great walk on the beach… Bill Velie, Port McNeill
Sept 11
After a sunny sky, flat calm arrival from Skull Cove, the weather reversed by
dawn today – a perfect small rain day walk up to the cabin from our tarped site
at the south end of the bay. From here the rapids and possibly Belize Inlet
before Shelter Bay. Joel Rogers, Glen Sims, Galen Tritt and Elliot Marks,
Seattle.
2002
Feb 23
Just an excellent day, no wind, hot sunshine and a great walk with the dogs
Bennie and Buddy. I’ll bet they will sleep good tonight. Going to Victoria
tomorrow to see Bert. When I came in to land saw a wolf, really black and big,
and he had sharp teeth too. (Again on March 7 , April 3, and May 19) Bill Velie, Port McNeill
April
25 Two Kiwi kayakers traveling from Victoria to Juneau and back. We, those are
the destinations but it is the journey that is most important. Here at Burnett
Bay we have started to find the true wilderness we were seeking (too early for
kayak/heli tours). Although the last week has had strong NWerly and has
hampered our progress, we were unable to resist the charms of Burnett Bay and
spent a wonderful two days enjoying the sun, exploring and trying to interpret
the animal tracks in the sand; deer, wolf and what appeared to be cougar tracks
following one set of deer tracks. Reading through the journals reveals a who’s
who of sea kayakers, some of whom have written books that inspired our trip –
Audrey Sutherland, Byran Ricks, and Randy Washburne. Thanks for this treasure
in the woods. Garth
6/12-19
Stayed a week to re-roof front half of cabin. Had intended to do all of it but ran
out of time and energy. Added a skylight and made a cover for it to protect it
from UV and falling branches – please put it on carefully when you leave. Also
brought up new stove. Its light-duty metal and probably won’t last too long.
Left the old one in place since it still seems serviceable. Also brought up
three lengths of 3” pipe, which won’t fit these stoves without an adapter. My
mistake. But there are two spare lengths of 4” behind and under the cabin.
Randy
Washburne
PS – I
didn’t get to filling the spaces at the top of the walls under the new roof. If
you have a saw and are inclined, please close them up and the cabin will heat
much better. Nails in the box under the window.
July 9
Thank you for providing us with this little spot to visit. Incredible beach. Am
here with a film crew filming the Wave Dancer canoe [?] Janet, North Vancouver.
July 12
Here for a couple of nights on a kayak trip from Prince Rupert to Victoria (via
Principe and Laredo Channels, detour to Fjordlands RA, and outer coast of
Vancouver Island). Lots of time with three months to do it – we’re 6 weeks out.
This beach is a trip highlight; the cabin and the journals are inspiring,
particularly when I read of how many people have enjoyed similar trips,
inspired by adventure and a love of the outdoors to make time for a long trip
or two [?].
With a
film crew camped down the beach and a helicopter that buzzed us at dinnertime,
there’s little feeling of remoteness. But I guess a place like this can’t stay
a secret (although I didn’t know it existed until today).
Hello
to Eric Abulnar (Aug 98 entry), a fellow Lakehead Outdoor Rec. grad.
What
this place needs is a good pen, so I’ll leave one, as my contribution.
Our
trip is being chronicled in the Times-Colony of Victoria. Its tempting to
mention this place, and tempting not to mention this place. Such is the paradox
of wilderness. It should be enjoyed by everyone, but not all at once. The great
thing about here is that its still as hard to get to as it ever was, for those
of us who don’t fly. Judging from the last decade of journal entries, things
aren’t changing too fast. Its 2002 and I’m still free to sit here on my own
mile of beach and wonder what the future will bring. Thanks to RW and all,
PS Two
wolves - one brown one grey – trotted
past the campsite on the beach this morning and bounded away when they saw me.
One
osprey.
Our
first hazeless sunset under perfectly clear skies, sliver of moon.
“Give
me things and things and no more thoughts.” Robinson Jeffers
“One speaks
of things when one means the spirit, but how is the spirit to be pictured otherwise.”
Howard
White,
Raincoast Chronicles
“One
light is left us: the beauty of things, not men; the immense beauty of the
world, not the human world.
Look –
and without imagination, desire nor dream – directly at the mountains and the
sea.” Robinson Jeffers
Tim, Victoria
July 20
Nine of us arrived by 37’ Montreal Native canoe. What a lovely surprise to find
your cabin in such a wonderful spot. Chris, Barbara, Ian, Breda, Harne, Paul,
Suzanna, Fred, and Lonnette.
July
27-29 We spent two peaceful days on the beach, in the bay, and at this cabin.
Calm seas prevailed. Eagles, osprey, loons, and falcons entertained us.
Impromptu beach volleyball likely entertained all wildlife looking on as 4 guys
got sandy and sweaty.
We left
some beach art – this ink print of a black rock fish that hangs on the wall.
Jim spearheaded the project as we made prints of ling cod and greenling as
well. Capp made the cedar frame.
On to
Skull Cove and then Port Hardy tomorrow. Capp – Blaine WA, Jim – Duvall WA,
Ronald and Steve – Redmond, WA
Aug 14
This place makes me think; therefore I am. I am privileged to visit this
glorious area. Gordon, Brockville, Ontario
Aug 14
We are here on our honeymoon; a long way from home (thank goodness!) Here with
Tofino Expeditions for a week of kayaking, peacefulness and beauty. A great way
to kick off the next 50 years of togetherness. Jamie and Pete, NY, NY
Aug 14
I can’t think of a better place to be right now than here at Burnett Bay.
Jennifer, Poulsbo WA
Sept 23
Arrived here last night from Egg Is. Paddled through the fog with only 50 m
visibility. It that wasn’t scary enough, gray whales decided to breach within
10-15 m of us on four different occasions.
Has
been five months since we were last here. We’re two Kiwi kayakers (brothers).
We’ve been up to Juneau via the inside waters, across to Glacier Bay via
Tenakee Hotsprings, then we’ve worked our way down the outer coast to here.
Next step is to Port Hardy and then the west coast of Vancouver Island to finish
at our starting point – Victoria.
Trip
highlights or must see areas for fellow kayakers – Le Conte Bay, Endicott Arm
and Fords Terror, Glacier Bay (McBride and Johns Hopkins glaciers), outside
coast of Yakobi, Chichagof, and Baronof Islands (make sure you stop at White
Sulfur Hotsprings), and outside coast from Prince Rupert to here.
Once
again we’d like to give our thanks to Randy Washburne for providing us with
this gem of a cabin. On an extended trip cabins like this are such a luxury. It
gives you a chance to dry out and your tent and wet weather gear get a much
deserved break and chance to also dry. Some trip photos should be posted on http://www.cankiwiskayak.co.nz/index.htm
Kevin and Garth
2003
Jan 12
Just flew in for a walk on the beach. Beautiful day sunny and hot – no wind.
Brenda’s first time to the cabin. Lots of great drift wood and shells on the beach.
Bill Velie, Port McNeill
April
21 Just flew in for a walk on the beach, just a great sunny day. It looks like
a bear has busted the plastic windows and chewed the yellow notebook, its all
wet so I’ll leave it on the bunk to dry. The next time I come up here I’ll
bring plastic for the windows. I would say the stove is on its last legs. Maybe
some welder with a machine shop could be talked into building a new stove out
of 3/16” metal that would last longer. I believe the fellow flies a Blue and
white 172 – his name could be Carl. I’ll fix the windows maybe safety glass
would be better than plastic. Bill Velie, Port McNeill
April
27 Carl was here and read the last entry and agreed to build a new stove. We’ve
seen wolf tracks on the beach. Also May 6. Bill Velie
June 1
Just a quick stop back again on my way from Rupert. 25 days down. Stared with 3
ppl – somehow lost 2 in Bella Bella and continued on my own. The outside of
Calvert was both challenging and rewarding. Lots of glass balls!! Ran into John
M up north, AKA Haddington John. He’s feeling rich these days – CPP is paying
him more than he’s ever made. He’s the hermit that built the cabin at the
lagoon at the other end. He told me lots of stories – like surfing his 20 ft
open dory into the bay, rounding the Charlottes in the same boat, etc. He’s got
a place up on Principe Channel and is look for a wife. Any takers? Until next
time. Don, Homeless, BC I fixed the windows, but I’m both clumsy and unskilled.
Sorry about the shitty job.
June 6
Camped at the other end of the beach. Paddling from [?] Bay, thru Broughton, up
coast on [?] to here. Always wanted to see the place and its well worthwhile.
Great sunny day. Here for a couple of days, then back via Port Hardy and to
catch the ferry to Bella Bella. Here for the journey, not the miles. Rod,
Terrace, BC
June 9
– Still here!! Thanks, wind for keeping me ashore to explore north and south on
foot.
June 18
Anchored off the beach in our 37’ sloop to comb the beach on our way north. A
charming spot in the sunshine and dead calm. Paul, Ray, Ed, SV “Domino”, Comox,
BC
June 26
We are a class of 9 students and 2 instructors from the National Outdoor
Leadership School. We’ve been out 21 days and have 7 more scheduled. Left Bella
Bella June 8, moving from island to island, shore to shore. By the grace of God
we have been allowed to glimpse paradise. Nice cabin. Keep on paddling. Willie,
Bay City, TX
June 26
Continued from previous entry, I am one of those fortunate students. Although
I’m a mere 20 and lack the experience of those in previous entries, I’d like to
say that finding this cabin has truly opened many doors in my stifled New
England mind. Thanks for the good reading, Randy. (Also Zen and the Art of
Motorcycle Maintenance was getting rather drab…Damn the books that everyone
tells you to read). Thanks for the cabin and the spawning of more ideas in a
youthful mind. Will, Wilton, CT
June 28
My dad and I flew in this afternoon, he wanted to show me this special beach.
Its very private and beautiful! Hope to come back soon for some more fresh air!
Lisa and Carl
July
17-18 We are touring (kayaking) in Central Coast and now heading south. Five
weeks of pristine waters, lots of wild life – whales, eagles, even two deer in
our camp! We find BC and especially the
Central Coast area very special and plan to be coming back – this is our third
time. You are welcome to our home waters, ie the Baltic Sea! Riika and Mikto,
Helsinki, Finland www.balticpaddlers.com/riikka.jaakkola@iki.fi
July 27
It is a gorgeous evening with a brisk wind making the beach look like the
Sahara Desert. A yellow plane is parked next to the big rocks in front. 4 of
the more than 50 visitors to the beach this weekend. Yes, it seems like Grand
Central Station. 30 Brits visited for lunch yesterday and a party of 11 is
camped at the south end of the beach.
Jim and
I tried to catch a salmon or halibut at the point, but we had to settle for a
couple of nice ling cod, which fed us nicely. We enjoyed a few games of beach
golf and have donated two clubs and 4 golf balls for others to enjoy. The rules
are simple – merely pick out an object in the distance, usually a prominent log
or rock, and count the strokes to hit it. Add creativity by inventing doglegs
(eg, “go to the right side of that patch of kelp and then back to hit the white
log on the left.”) Green fees are zero and there is no waiting for golfers in
front of you. We did have a plane land in the middle of the course yesterday
though. Enjoy a try at it; you don’t have to be any good to get some exercise
and some laughs.
We are
off for Skull Cove tomorrow, then home (Seattle area) on Tuesday. This is our
3rd year here, and it is as lovely as ever. Thoughts of the coast keep us going
through the winters. Steve and Jim
July 31
Kayaking from Indian Cove to Port Hardy [?] to different wonderful places. Will
have golf tournament today. Thank you to those who supplied club and balls!
Wonderful whale watching. Shaun, Jean, Diane [?]
Aug 2
The Savage family and our pilot Peter stopped here for the afternoon. We are on
the first day of our helicopter adventure from Nimmo Bay – this beach was a great
part of it! Savages, Shaverton, PA
Aug 4
After a full year away from home working as a teaching assistant in White Rock,
BC it is time for this chapter of my life to end. At 19 I am going home to the
UK in 12 days and continuing my education. Wow what a year. This place has left
me with some remarkable memories. [?], Yorkshire, UK
For
such a wild “remote” spot it sure is busy – helicopters buzzing the beach,
ridiculous commercial groups of 17 kayakers, hordes of salmon fisherman, a
lovely couple who flew in here in this crazy 1947 amphibious contraption,
and
finally, vs. what a trip – finally realizing a dream to paddle these incredible
waters. We are now realizing why exactly our Klepper kayak was free – a
generous gift with the not-so-cool spontaneous collapsibility feature…We
paddle, we bail, we repair, we love it! Been
to a few secret shacks in the hills and beaches, but this is one of the
funkiest! Around the cape when the wind lets us! Dave, Kelly and Lucy [dog?]
May the
wind always be at our backside not from it! PS Crossing paths never ceases to
amaze me…its been a pleasure to read of tales and adventures from these books…
its been a real treat to read from those tales of people we know… a small
world…maybe…a West Coast Mecca! KC
2004
July 16
Here for a couple of days on trip from Bella Bella to Pt Hardy via Goose Group
and Calvert. Mixed bag of weather through entire trip. Lots of whales and great
paddling. Rod and Ian, Terrace, BC
July 20
After being flooded out from the bottom up by surprise streams formed by
Monsoon type rains, we stayed in the cabin to dry out. We were in an 1840’s
miners tent with an awning. A great thanks to the builder of this cabin and
those who have left it intact. Wendy and Dennis
Aug 3
Starting at Sea Otter Cone, south of Bella Bella, we stopped in at the N end of
Calvert Island. Paddled down the wonderland of Fury Island, then to Table
Island – a jewel in the coastal islands. Presently we’re camped at the south
end of Burnett Bay. We walked the length of the beach to discover this terrific
cabin. This bay is a heart-stopper. Breathtaking beauty. Doug, Rochelle, Julia,
[?]
Aug 5
The most amazing vista walking up the beach. Headed up from Port Hardy to Shelter
Bay then on to Burnett Bay. We will be leaving tomorrow – hard to leave. Bruce
and Marge, Smiths Falls, Ontario
Aug 5
The McKinstry’s tentacles reach to Burnett Bay. Our first kayak experience on
the west coast. Our appetite has been whetted. To all those that follow,
remember our natural world at all times and treat with respect. These areas are
becoming scarcer with time. Brenda and Brian, Calgary, Alberta
8-11
Paddling from Port Hardy, we’re camping in the bay for a couple of nights and
found your beautiful cabin. We’ve seen many whales in the bay for the past 3
days. Julie and Brandon
2005
Jan 3
First flight up here this year. Great day, a little frosty. Also Feb 20 Bill
Velie
Feb 20
First flight this year to the beach. Carl Nissen
March
23 Still returning to this incredible place from 85 on. Storm winds today.
Trying out new kayaks. Thanks cabin builder! Doug Simpson (Feathercraft) and
Dan Elliot
PS Put
in the mylar windows 2 years ago. They are lasting well.
May 9
Kayak party of 4, landed yesterday at the south end of the beach. Graham and
Bob traveling from Horseshoe Bay to Prince Rupert with Chris and Eliza
traveling from Port McNeill to Bella Bella. It rained a little last night but
not much wind. We pulled our boats right into the salal last night since the
surf and 15 foot tide wanted to take them for a ride. Nice little cabin here,
next time I’ll sleep in here. I wish safe travel to those who come through here
in future, and sanity to those who come to places like this to escape the harsh
hypocrisy of the world.
June 30
Landed on the beach with the 140, really nice day, no wind, the smoke from the
fire going straight up! [?], Port Hardy
Sept 8
Camped out for a week at the south end nook. Beautiful beach and sunny skies (mostly)…
[?]
Sept 14
Solo by kayak from Namu to the outside of Calvert Island. I heard about this
cabin from my friend Kim – see Aug 14 2000 entry. What a trip! High points –
surviving surf on outside of Calvert Island ( camped smack in the middle), despite
losing everything off my deck – have been searching for a replacement water
bottle ever since. Grizzly cubs (at a distance)! 1 hour paddling with the
feeding frenzy of 3 humpback whales, 50-100 dolphins, and several hundred sea
birds – ever been escorted en route by a pod of dolphins (porpoises?)? I was
actually afraid at one point that the barnacled tail of one of those 3 was
going to brush me on the re-entry, after a giant leap out of the water after
thousands of small fish fleeing for their lives! Cape Caution is among the
loveliest or areas. Protect it! Love it! Respect it. A certain low point is the
sheer number of planes flying overhead – at least 1-2 per hour, even in the
middle of September.
May the
winds take you where you need to be. Jeff, Chilliwack, BC
A great
many thanks to the cabin community for upkeep and vigilance.
Dec 26
A beautiful [?] day visit to the beach! Weather very windy, big high rollers
coming in, just roaring, crashing, a sight to see. Cabin still in pretty good
shape. With best to whoever visits the cabin for 2006. Bill Velie
2006
May 21
Great sunny windy day. Hot. Perfect beach weather. Flew up with Loraine her
first time up here. The beach is real clean. Bill Velie
June 10
We’re three days into a trip from Port Hardy to Bella Bella. There’s been a
little bit of everything so far – sun, wind, fog. We even capsized close to the
Millar Group in Ripple Passage on the crossing to the mainland, which was a bit
of a shock for the first day. This is a fantastic beach, reminiscent of some
other favourites among us including Carmanch and Cow Bay on Flores Island.
Fortunately (perhaps), we seem to be the only ones here, which seems like it
might be atypical if we were here a month later. It is very difficult to
imagine plans and helicopters and gaggles of visitors right now. We are about
to “tuck in”( for Bill our token Brit) to some chocolate and whiskey, now that
dinner is done. Safe paddling…Neil, Bill, Gord, and Josh
June 10
Great to be out with a good group of friends and to arrive safe and sound in
such a beautiful place. Reminds me a lot of Cow Bay on Flores Island. Inspiring
to see so many others on their own (on sometimes extended) journeys…these June
trips of ours are going to become a ritual that should last through our 20’s,
30s…80s? Always feel at home out here. Great to see Neil and Martin’s entry.
Safe seas to all who follow. Gord
June 20
Queen Charlotte Sound flat calm. Crew of Oliver Clark needed a walk on Burnett
Bay beach. Jed, Steve, Kim, Elizabeth, Liz, and Jill
June 27
Greetings from Marc and [?]. Using the gorgeous amenities for supreme
relaxation! Two solo kayakers on our way from Bella Bella to Port Hardy in 30
days. 4 days here. Thanks Randy! We tidied up…
July 3
I’m a solo kayaker on my way from Prince Rupert to Port Hardy via the outside
route. Just stumbled across this place. Fantastic! Thanks a million! Jon
July 15
Stayed three days. Saw 2 wolf cubs with their mother on the beach when I came
in – and bear tracks in front of the campsite. What a beautiful day – calm
ocean, no wind, great sunset. Greetings – fellow kindred kayak spirits. Denise,
Vancouver. PS did you know the First Nation name for this beach is “Place to
Dance on the Beach”?
PS took
out a bit of garbage – old cans. Left a working lighter and some dry kindling.
Safe travels. Denise
Aug 1
I’ve finally arrived here. After reading Don Webster’s story from June/May of
2003 I am reminded of our trip where I ultimately met my wife. As we lost a
tooth and gained our first child, Don continued on from Bella Bella to reach
Port Hardy.
This
trip we arrive as a group of 7 on a guided trip with Kingfisher Adventures. [?]
and his Dad, Emi, Mark, Joyce, and Elizabeth. We head back to Hardy from where
we started. Paddled from Shelter Bay yesterday. Calm seas and very un-central
coast like. Brushed roof, left some origami, swept up a little. Scraped moss.
Chris
Aug 1
Well after having been turned back by weather and a lack of time, it is such a
gift to have made it by kayak this year. We were blessed with ideal conditions
on the way up. Saw some wolf and grizzly tracks on the beach as well as a grey
whale in the bay. Thank you for such a wonderfully well kept cabin. In the
spirit of this cabin we put our group to work to help in a bit of cleaning.
Best wishes to those who follow. Jill
Aug 1
So blessed to be on this trip with my son. This is such a beautiful example of
creative architecture! Also very good ideas for those of us who dream of
leaving a smaller footprint. Roger
Aug 2
Traveling by kayak from the beach around the corner of Wilke Point to Port
Hardy. This is my third trip here (1992 and 1998) and everything looks as great
as ever. Mostly sunny days with wind. Thanks to everyone for taking such good
care of this cabin. Steve, Justine, Sharon, Owen, Margaret, David, and Cheryl
Aug 3
Ryan and Scott were here. Very neat and clean.
Aug 11
Svenja, Jen, Leonard and Jay. Neat place! We’re doing research on grey whales
in the area “Coastal Ecosystems Research Foundation”. We’re based in Skull Cove
on Bramham Island about five miles south of here. We’re there from June-mid
Sept every year – come visit! Very interesting place here , fantastic cabin and
great logbooks!
Aug 14
Its amazing being here 4500 miles from home when my brother has been sat in
exactly the same place three years ago. See 4/18/03 (Kip). He came back home to
Yorkshire England with great tales of his year in Canada, so that’s why I’m
here. I am going to surprise him with an exact copy of his picture in this hut,
the only difference being I will be sat in it.
A great
paddling trip in a 42’ canoe from Bella Bella to Port McNeill with some
extremely close (sometimes too close) whale experiences!
It’s
great this place isn’t very accessible otherwise it would be busy!
I am
hoping I cam bring my parents to this place…then we will be looking for this
entry. Mike, Bedale, Yorkshire, England
Aug 14
Loved being here. Left Bella Bella Aug 4 in our 42 ft Spirit Dancer canoe
scheduled for UK circumnavigation 2008/2009. http://www.spiritdancercanoejourneys.ca/#ad-image-1
Visited
Codville Lagoon, Sager Lake, Namu, Open Bight, Blunden Bay, Burnett bay. Finish
at Shelter Bay. Spirit Dancer traveled the Alaska, BC Coast, May-August 2004
105 days. Our canoe returns each season for another great journey. The BC
coast, a jewel like nothing else truly spectacular.
Love to
all that enjoy these treasures. Barbara, Chris, Mike, Theron, Steve, Liz, Phil,
Elle.
A
Tuesday in August, 2006 At least I think its 2006. I washed ashore here after
being lost at sea for many months in a Mongolian lake yurt. This inverted
tribal tent when stiffened with yak bones becomes a remarkably seaworthy craft.
For years I have speculated that Mongolian outcast tribesmen fleeing
persecution from the west escaped with their yurts and yaks to find freedom and
peace in Canada (although they named this place “Yot”). It wasn’t easy and
these brave people must have endured intense storms, wild seas, and silly [?]
company. They brought no food, but gourds filled with their staple, yogurt. I
was determined to prove to the world that the Mongolians discovered Canada long
before anyone else. It is a very long but thrilling story and one that could
not have been written had I not brought a 7-iron along which it turns out is
just the right club selection for beating off humpback whales. But I must go
now before the sun goes down as I am down to my last tub of Dannon™ yogurt. I feel guilty about the
sponsorship thing, but without yurts, yaks, and yogurt, I never would have
found “Yot”. Thor, Mongolia, Colorado
The
sound of the waves the connection with life. The force of it and the source of
it. Places like these on earth allow more easily for humanity to connect to the
source within. Drop all thoughts, all mindsets, and feel the sand grains
beneath our toes, the wind in our hair to blow away the old patterns, the sun
to enliven and give us energy as it does
the world.
We will
see, feel hear the quieter, most peaceful of all [?] within the year. Luan.
Aug 19
Salimos del camp y nos trajeron a Canada y nos quedemose en Nimmo Bay. Today we
met this beach it was lots of fun we flew a kite, we are 7 people and we wrote
on the sand lots of things and our names too. Capriles, Daniela
Finally
came here with my fiancée, whom I’ve been longing to bring here for so very
long. These places are pure magic. Love you Tiffy. M, Port Hardy
Aug 20
My hands are so cold I can barely write but hey! Live is amazing! My guy and I
leapt off our boat in a nearby bay and swam ashore. He forgot his sunglasses so
it was double the trip for him. Flippin cold even in August. But man do I feel
alive! Hope that if I ever see any of you on the street that I will give you a
big smile and vis versa. Keep shinin’, Toff
Sept 6
Port Hardy to Rivers Inlet. Fog and clearing in afternoon, Mod NW pm, small
surf. Let the sun keep shining! Al, Marty, Bob, Doug, David, Jerry, and Al.
Sept 16
Out for a joyride [drawing of a plane] on a sunny Saturday, first time here,
passed by many times but never had time to stop. Awesome. We live in paradise.
Tom, Don, Ryan
Sept 25
We are on our way south to Port McNeill from Bella Bella , kayaking. We stopped
here for lunch and stayed 2 nights because the fog rolled in. How lucky we were
to be encouraged to explore this beautiful beach! We made delicious salal berry
crumble both nights for desert. Thank you to all of you who have contributed to
this wonderful cabin and to keeping this inspiring journal alive! Sarah, Sarah,
and Leah
2007
Jan 13
Just a great day to be up at the beach. Bill Velie
Jan 13
Just flew in with my mom and dad and my daughter Rose to take in the sun, sand,
and sea. The waves are rolling, the air is warm, and the smell of fresh cedar
from the storm that has crashed the logs against the shoreline, fills the air.
There is still snow on the logs but at this point everything seems to be in
good shape. Nature has a fine way of doing just that. Must carry on to see more
of the splender. Tracy
April
29 Just put new tires on the plane, came to the beach to try them out.
Beautiful day, no wind, sunny, brought friend Simon out, moose sausage over the
fire for dinner! Dean
May 5
Came out from Y2T for a few hours – bed weather moving in soon. Nice place!
Simon and Shelly
May
28-June 6 Back for another round of cabin maintenance, probably the last for a
while. Ed and Sue Putnam accompanied Gunvor and me, and Ed was a huge help in
getting everything done. First we ripped off the east side of the roof, which
was totally rotten (it lasted 22 years). We reinforced the rafters and put on
new shakes. This year we found an exceptionally good cedar log on the beach
that made very good smooth shakes. They were so good and easy to make that we
also added a third layer over the mediocre ones I put on in 2002. We also
ripped out the shoddy skylight I put in (thanks to Doug Simpson and Bill Velie
for replacing the visqueen with mylar. The new skylight is made from Lexan
polycarbonate so it should be strong enough that it won’t need covering.
Since
the shakes were so easy to make, we made a bunch of extras that can be used in
case of damage or leaks. There aren’t many small nails left, but probably
enough for small repairs.
I also
brought in a new stove, the seventh I think in 22 years. This one is the
flimsiest of all so it will need a replacement soon. Bill Velie’s idea of a
welded one would be very nice, or a stainless one even better! Anyhow, due to a
miscalculation in putting up the new rafters we had to put the pipe hole closer
to the wall than we would have liked. I insulated it with aluminum flashing,
but please keep a small fire and don’t burn plastic trash – it gets too
hot.
In
spite of all the attention to construction we still found time to appreciate
being at a place that is still as magical as ever.
I also
finished photographing these journals and will transcribe many of them to put
up on my web site. See washburnemarine.com and click on the link for “My
Stories” (I’ll probably change this but you’ll find it.) You can contact me at
randy@washburnemarine.com. There are also chapters about building this and
other cabins, and trips here and there. More to finish if I get feedback that
anyone is reading them.
Best
regards to all of you and fair winds in your travels. And thanks for your help
in keeping this place alive. Randy Washburne
PS The
toilet is getting full (not bad for 12 years…) Gunvor stirred it with a stick
to spread it out (what fun!) and we poured in fresh water and cedar shavings in
hope of improving composting.
June 5
Still a city-slicker, I have enjoyed another week at Burnett Bay; sitting on
the beach contemplating life “what may fulfill human needs”, working on my
latest knitting project and reading, some from the little library here and I
left 2 additional books. I always enjoy reading the stories of other paddlers
and for meeting you on the beach. I am an infrequent traveler in these waters
and for that reason maybe, enjoy every day and soon forget the struggles.
I took
notice of the earlier (7/16/06) traveler who noticed the First Nations name for
this beach and danced around the beach fire one evening in honor of all who
have traveled here before. Gunvor
June 6
This is the third time I have visited the Bay. Each time I come here I
appreciate it more and more – I find new places to explore and new tidepools to
visit. I find my experience very settling. I can shake off the thoughts of
stress of the city and the everyday work thoughts. I find it very comforting to
know that I can paddle here under my own power and be very comfortable with the
simple things.
Making
Shakes
The
surf is crashing,
The saw
is cutting through.
Whoosha,
Whoosha!
The air
has a tang of salt and cedar,
The
round falls.
The
froe comes out,
The
cudgel is found.
Froe in
place. Bang!
With
the cudgel.
Prying
the first shake off,
Small
cracks, then Clap!
The
shake is off.
Ed
June 6
Two more verses for “Hauling Shit Around” (see 8-31-2000):
Now the
day is over
And the
paddlings at an end
We
found the perfect camp site
To
share with all our friends
Cocktail
hour draws near and there’s hors’d’ourves
by the
pound.
But first
we have to go and haul that shit around!
What a
great place to spend our 26th anniversary. We’ve been here 8 beautiful days and
now we sit and wait for the wind to die so we can head back down to Port Hardy.
Sue
Thanks to Tom H and Roger L for recording these entries:
July 4
We stopped in with the kids for a picnic.
The new roof and skylight are fantastic! Bruce, Sharon, Sam, Fiona &
Olivia
July 7
--- Day 42 I've taken two luxurious layover days at this wonderful cabin,
trying to get ready to round Cape Caution.
I'm scared. But if the forecast
and actual conditions are OK, tomorrow I will launch. I'm on day 42 of 120, Seattle-Skagway, so I
theoretically could hang out at the cabin a lot longer if need be. We'll see. Deb in Goldie
July 31
We are staying at the south end of the beach for two nights. Beautiful weather, sun and swell. Out here having lunch on our rest day. Returning south tomorrow. What a wonderful cabin for all who pass by.
With Respect, Ellery
Part of
same group. Unexpected surprise to see
such comfort in the forest. Great
cabin! Don't sell any more plots! Denise
July 31
Made it again to this beautiful beach. Such a magical place. Wolf tracks all
over the beach. Weather has been great til now.
Thank you to all those who repaired the cabin this year. Hope to do so myself in the coming
years. Best of luck to those who follow.
Sincerely, Joel
(Thanks to Tom H. for transcribing the following entries)
August
3 All in all, I've spent over 10 days here, including my last visit a few weeks
ago, and except for some eroded footprints in the sand I haven't seen another
soul. The only improvement on this
experience would have been a bottle (or two) of properly chilled wine, or a
decent companion. Maybe next time I come
I'll bring someone, maybe not, however there definitely will be a next
time. I'll leave here, but the memories
of my stay will sill remain with me forever. Goodbye funky cabin. Tom H.
August 7
Wow! I feel like I'm signing my name on
a piece of art. I heard about this cabin
nearly two months ago while hiking the Misty Fjords National Monument,
south-east Alaska. Actually the fellow
who marked this location, very accurately I might add, on my chart was one of
the co-founders of "Klutz" books!
So, since then I've meandered and socialized my way here in a Canadian
'Current Designs Andromeda' sea kayak I named "Intuition". This is my second solo kayak expedition and I
plan to reach Olympia in about three weeks (depending on the party atmosphere
in places I visit!). Last summer I made
record time living spiritually and efficiently kayaking from Skagway to
Ketchikan. This year I bleached my hair
white, shave regularly, smoke weed nearly every day, drink lots of beer with
the natives and have casual sex with stellar babes. I also did not pack a tent, though I have not
had to properly camp since the top of Grenville Channel. Communities, cruisers and cabins have been
nicely spaced to accompany me for the rest.
Today I paddled past Cape Caution --- the scariest part of this
adventure. The day was nice and I could
just about touch the coast of the cape!
Being cocky, I thought I would tie my kayak off to my paddle (jammed in
the rocks) in a nearby small alcove, and rock climb and leap to the light and
find a rock or something to keep as an artifact of proof that things aren't
always as scary as old bully men lecture and warn you about. I found an eagle's feather at the base of the
light. The only rocks were those used in
the concrete foundation. I climbed to the light and took photos. I raced back to my kayak --- half expecting
to see it out to sea on my way back, but it was still there! Only upside down --- I nimbly gazelled down
the final cliff face, chuckling as I do at misfortunate events. The tide had come further in the swell was
rougher than when I left. With trouble,
I flipped upright my fully loaded kayak and saw that I'd lost my GPS! I searched through the surf but was getting
battered --- I rescued my bear spray floating past like a rodeo cowboy, mounted
my aquarium hatch, legs out, and back-paddled to safety. Till my arm died I purged with my paddle
pump. Still half-full, I paced back into
the surf to get my water bottle. I considered
a 2nd attempt at rescuing my GPS, but I thought it was probably busted now
anyways. Luckily, I spotted the cabin's benches from the water. I wouldn't have checked it out if I hadn't to
take a crap! This is the coolest little cabin I've seen. The sun is shining so I'm gonna go play some
kelp-ball golf. Check out website zensters! web.mac.com/worldofintuition Love
You All! Tris(??? illegible)
August
9 Six of us camping/kayaking at the south end of Burnett Bay. Paddled and hiked
around for a couple days and are having a good old time. Two days left and we are going to enjoy them.
Mother Nature has been kind to us and I hope she stays that way. Best to rest
that follow. Tony, Bill, Doug, Chris, Norm, Al aka "Odd Squad"
August
17 & 18 Enjoyed this location, one of the prettiest on the coast. Much appreciated this ??? cabin. 70 &71 year old kayakers. We did a wet launch from BC Ferries near
Codvill Lagoon, going to Port Hardy. Liz and Phil (grannieb@telus.net)
August
25 Three slept in cabin, soggy in the rain.
On our way to Bella Bella from Port Hardy. I took digital shots of log and entries. Great beach walk yesterday.
August
25 Bella Bella to Port Hardy --- a wonderful trip. Stretched my leg on a beautifull walk, bathed
in the river at the far end. Good food,
good friends. Great place! Sheila, Bowen Island, BC
August
28 Seiner 'C. Freeman' Second visit here.
Thought I'd see if shack was still here, was here 3-4 years ago. Going to walk the beach. See Ya. Jeffrey
August
28 What a spot. Weathered out some gale
winds and enjoyed the hut. Will come
back. All the way from Australia. Russel
August
28 Storm bound but having fun. Gill & Mike Arbutlinott, Aberdeenshire,
Scotland (Kingfisher trip)
August
28 Not the first time & definitely
not the last. Not all who wander are lost. Don
August
28 First time here. Absolutely
amazing. Hope to be back soon.
Kerry
September
20 What a wonderfull and mysterious
place! Here from the beaches of NC! We
are so fortunate to come here by helicopter from Nimmo Bay --- thanks to Kevin. What an adventure! Black bears, grizzlies, eagles and seals on
the way here --- on the way back who knows!
Looking forward to the rest of our adventure. And we all lived happily ever after. Carla,
Tommy, Edward & sons Lee, Stewart Greenville, NC Kinston, NC
2008
January
20 My first trip to the cabin this year, still in good shape, just a great day.
Lots of new drift on the beach. Bennie
my dog sure loves it! Happy New Year! Bill V. CGASC
April
28 Bill V and I flew in to explore on a great west coast evening. Wind calm, slightly overcast but the sun
still casts a warm glow on the beach.
Only problem was we didn't bring a cameraman! John Lovelace (host of
aviation TV show, "Wings Over Canada")
May 16
Matt Edwards, Ryan Adams, sea kayaking Hardy - Haynes. Just visited, didn't stay. Rad place! R &
M NZ & Australia
July
19 What a beautiful scenic ride down the
beach in a Nimmo Bay chopper. Moore Cary
NC
July 19
Though my soul may set in darkness.
It
shall rise in the light
I have
loved the stars too dearly
to be
fearfull of the night.
Barbara
B.R. NC
July 23
Sweet spot! Tanner-Rainville-VT
(Thanks to Phil and Apryle for photographing the following
entries)
Aug 1
Didn’t notice the last time I was here but wow – there sure are a lot of mice!
Most of the time they are quite discrete, but then, as if on cue, at some time
long after sunset, its all of a sudden “Mouse Happy Hour!”, and if you turn the
light on they’re all over – big ones, small ones, all scurrying around. Then
the burst of activity winds down again. Strange. Not the place for anybody with
a rodent phobia. Goodbye, cabin in the woods, til next year…Tom
Aug 4
Marie and Tom here for the night en route to Port Hardy. Started Experiment
Point on 7/27. Sweet cabin!
Sept 9
Rob and Jen stayed in the cabin for 2 nights and are being picked up by
Stardust. Flipped kayak, lost paddles, Jen burned hand, Rob spilled beer, but
we kayaked, surfed and bathed in the river.
Sept 21
Bren and Bernie and I just flew in from Port McNeill. The beach is just as
great as it always is, really warm about 15 knot wind, just enough to keep the
flies away. Its great to see the cabin still in good shape and getting some
use. We’ve had a good walk on the beach. Lots of birds for Bernie to chase.
Bill and Brenda V
2009
April
15 Heading for Skagway Alaska from Saltspring Island, left April 2 and have ben
hung up her in southeasterly storms for a day and a half. Wonderful place to be
stuck! Hope to leave on a shop window break early tomorrow morning (April 17).
Would like to keep getting this wind on our backs as we’ve got nice sail rigs
on our kayaks. Great to see the cabin in such good shape. Jack and Brian
May 19
Just a great, hot and sunny day and just enough of a breeze to keep the flies
away. Bennie and I had a good walk on the beach, saw 1 wolf at the far end.
Cabin still in good shape. Who ever uses it should remember to close the sun
roof to protect the glass from falling branches etc. It’s a great day for
flying and walking on the beach with man’s best friend. Bill V and “Benny”
June 17
Just a quick break on a foggy morning to see this beautiful cabin. Left 5 days
ago from Port Hardy in our tandem folding kayak enroute to Ketchikan. Having a
lovely time. Grizzly and wolf tracks by stream. Thank you to those who make
this place possible. Pearl and David, Cascabel, Arizona
June 24
We’ve paddled here from Gig Harbor, WA over the last 53 days. We’ve fought
contrary currents, howling headwinds, aching joints, and a deep rift in our
relationship, but we’ve made it to Burnett Bay and have spent a day resting,
refueling, and enjoying this cozy little cabin. Tomorrow we will round Cape
Caution, wind and swell permitting, and continue toward Alaska. We haven’t been
moving quickly, but for a pair of Pennsylvania flatlanders who call themselves
Colorado climbers, I am pretty proud to be here safe and strong. The cabin is in good shape. Haven’t seen the
skylight cover but will take a closer look before leaving. The stove has rusted
through in a few spots but still burns hot and draws well. We really could ask
for a more perfect spot for a rest day…I almost hope the weather pins us here
for a few days. Thank you Randy and everyone else who has contributed to this
safe haven. May the wind be to your backs! Phil and Apryle
June 25
Quick note, spent an extra day waiting for a break in the weather before
paddling around Cape Caution. On disassembly the stove chimney pipe this
evening, the section attached to the stove came loose. There appears to be some
extra stovepipe and tin under the cabin, though repairing the stove may be
beyond my skill and equipment. If we stay another day I’ll take a closer look,
otherwise, my apologies! Thanks again…this place is magical. Phil and Apryle
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