Saturday, November 7, 2015

Bella Bella 2 Prince Rupert 2015

Image by Dave Resler


McLoughlin Bay to Quinoot Point
July 27 / Day 1
Overcast with showers, Winds calm raising to SW @ 12 knots, Calm to 1’ wind waves, Seas rippled


Launching from the rocky beach adjacent to the ferry dock took me back 10 years to my last visit to McLoughlin Bay and first trip to the BC coast.  Dave and I had been drawn together during the ‘70’s by our love of hang gliding.  I had sold him his first glider and we had shared many thermals, windy launches and LZ’s but Dave’s move to Idaho had separated us geographically and we hadn’t stayed in touch.  Then in 2004 Dave contacted me.  He was back in town and it turned out that we shared an interest in paddling.  He had taken a couple of kayak trips with Larry Longrie and Keith Blumhagen and wanted to share the experience with me.  He had brought me to this very beach in July 2005 and introduced me to the magic of the Wild Coast.

By 2007 we had convinced my co-worker, Greg Polkinghorn, that he should come along with us, which he did,  and he was returning now for his 4th trip.  This was my 7th and Dave’s 9th

Inspired by Washington paddler Chuck Curry’s accomplishment of paddling the outer coast to Sitka, we set the modest goal of paddling the outer BC coastline between Prince Rupert and Victoria.  We would do it in bits and pieces.  Emboldened by the “Outer Coast Guides” published by Glenn Lewis with the help of Harriet Rueggeberg, Reale Emonds, Karina Younk, Geoff Mumford and Ursula Vaira we felt the time was right for us to take a sizable bite out of the elephant and paddle the outer coast of Athlone, Price, Aristazabal, Estevan Group, Banks, Porcher and Stephens Island.  I liked the fact that we were starting this trip where my BC coastal explorations had originally begun.

We shared the beach with two Canadians who were bound for Port Hardy in a double.  Their plans called for spending the night, close to Shearwater, on Rainbow Island so that they could start their trip after an evening of pizza and beer.  I suspect that their double, like a good horse, knew its way back to the barn and could deliver the cowboys safely to their camp.  Sounded like a decent idea to me but we were off to the Heiltsuk cabin on Quinoot Point for the first leg of our journey.  


McLoughlin Bay to Quinoot Point Chart

Wednesday, November 13, 2013

Port Hardy 2 Coal Harbour 2013

Image by Dave Resler

Dave and I planned to paddle from Port Hardy around the north end of Vancouver Island…..sort of.  I say sort of because normally there are months of detailed planning that precedes these trips but both of us were so busy with family and work that planning was crammed into very short, individual and last-minute time slots.  Dave, the fastidious planner, would normally have three routes carefully worked out with different timelines for each.  We would pick one as conditions presented themselves and stick with it.  I had learned a lot from him and incorporated his style into my solo trip plan in 2012.  During that trip, however, I found that I was very comfortable going off-plan and switching from one to another as conditions and opportunities presented themselves.

Our basic plan was to paddle up Goletas Channel towards Cape Scott, the far end of Vancouver Island, and down the west coast to Quatsino Sound ending in Coal Harbour.  Conditions and whim would determine our exact path to Cape Scott and our daily distance, overall.  We weren’t pressed for time as we had three weeks. We could finish early or afford to get pinned for days somewhere with no way to get off the beach.

Ultimately, tides, winds and sea state would dictate progress and we could choose to cross Goletas Channel to the God’s Pocket complex, Nigei Island and Hope Island areas to just poke around and hide from high winds and weather or just hang out.  We could also choose to benefit from the favorable morning ebbs that should push us up the channel and on our way.  Current in Goletas Channel runs up to 3 knots with intersecting currents running to 5 knots providing an environment where rips and ragged water can be generated.  Throw a west wind against the ebb and progress could become arduous and busy. 


Between Vancouver and Hope Islands Goletas Channel escapes into the open Pacific where Nahwitti Bar rises up from the depths to confound and anger the current, winds and swell.  Vessels of all size consider conditions on the bar and it can go off.

Friday, August 17, 2012

Klemtu 2 Port Hardy 2012


I had no burning desire to take a solo trip.  It was just that my paddling partners weren't available to travel and I did have a burning desire to go north for a bit, so solo it was.   I liked the idea of being able to dictate my own schedule, poke around instead of focus on mileage, change my route without debate, take a day off or not as the spirit moved me, etc.  The solo-thing meant, to me anyway, that I would need to select a route that wasn't too ambitious and that I would really have to pay attention to the conditions so that I stayed within my skill set.

The route would be an "Inside-Outside" sort of thing with plenty of familiar locales to provide comfort plus some new sights and exciting challenges.  Since I had never spent much time on the Inside Passage I would start by flavoring some of the long deep reaches.  I would be passing four Kayak Bill camps and hoped to find his last camp on Gosling Island clean enough to camp at.  The outside of Calvert had called to me for years so, conditions allowing, I would spend a couple of days checking that out.   Finally, I had spent some time discussing the crossing of Queen Charlotte Strait with Glenn Lewis of Nanaimo and, if I lost the usual number of days to foul weather, I would be making that crossing when currents were running high in Gordon and Goletas Channels so a different tact would be employed.


Klemtu to Sarah Island
7/27 Friday, Day 1
60 degrees, Overcast, calm winds and seas


I met the Nanaimo Paddlers at the Bear Cove dock.  Really a nice bunch of folks who were heading for the outside of Aristazabal, Price and Athlone and who would spend the next the 12 or so hours trying hard to convince me to come along with them.  Made for a very enjoyable ride to Klemtu.

Northern Expedition in Bear Cove

Thursday, February 4, 2010

the Outside Passage 2009




A chance encounter with Chuck Curry in 2007 set our minds in motion and inspired this trip that we embarked on July 17.  We were camped at the west end of Higgins Passage on July 18, 2007 when Chuck stopped by to chat.  A Puget Sound paddler, he was going solo from Port Hardy to Prince Rupert.  He had crossed Milbanke Sound earlier that day in the same dense fog that Greg had unerringly led the 15.2 NM route from Milne Island to Higgins.  After about 20 minutes Chuck paddled off towards the west.  He still had some miles to make.  We would meet up with him later in Seattle and learn that he had taken a route outside of Aristazabal, Trutch and Banks Islands.  He had intended to go outside of Porcher, also, but ducked inside because he was running out of food.  We were inspired to attempt his route, in reverse, and that is what we spent the previous two years planning.


An extremely rough sketch of our intended route was to go through Edye Passage at the north end of Porcher Island and hang a left, keeping open ocean to our right until the time came to cross Queen Charlotte Strait for Port Hardy.  We didn’t have the expectation that conditions would allow that but it was still the dream.  The BC Coast isn’t known for producing the perfect stretch of weather it would take to allow us to consider that a viable route so an Inside/Outside Route is what we ended up doing and we made choices each day as to what route to take.  We had a two week hard-date where we had to get Greg to Klemtu or Shearwater for his ferry ride back to Port Hardy so we couldn’t afford to get pinned down by inclement weather.


West Coast British Columbia
Map from Encarta World Atlas

For the benefit of family and friends Dave carried a Spot Satellite Messenger on his back and we “sent off a Spot” each morning when we launched, at lunch if we put ashore and again when we reached a campsite.  When we had no option to get out of our boats for lunch we activated it on Dave’s back or not at all.  These devices seem to have had some reliability issues, however, Dave’s worked perfectly and posted each Spot that we sent.  For safety’s sake I wore an ACR Terrafix EBIRB that we would rely upon if we required extraction.



Seattle to Prince Rupert

At 2:15 AM on the morning of July 16 Dave arrived at my house.  We loaded the truck and started north.  Two hours to Tsawwassen, 30 minutes on the dock, a two hour crossing to Nanaimo and five more driving up the island would bring us to Port Hardy.  On the way up-island we made a stop at Campbell River to pick up Dave’s fishing license and to mail the food supply for the second half of our trip (55 pounds) to Klemtu where we would pick it up two weeks hence. 

Waterfront Park

Monday, January 29, 2007

Individual Daily Meal Plan


Breakfast
2 servings of instant oatmeal             320 calories
Starbucks Via                                       50 calories
                                                          370 calories

Snack
ProBar                                              370 calories

Lunch
1 large flour tortilla                        180 calories
Landjaegar                                       190 calories
Cheese                                                110 calories
                                                         480 calories

Snack
Protein Bar                                        270 calories

Dinner
Freeze dried                                       550 – 650 calories

Daily Total Calories                         2090 calories

Additionally, I carry a jug of Hammer Gel that holds the equivalent of 8 individual 100 calorie servings.  I use this to top up between meals and planned snacks.

15 NM = 5 hours of paddling = 2125 calories burned
18 NM = 6 hours of paddling = 2550 calories burned
21 NM = 7 hours of paddling = 2975 calories burned

Sunday, January 1, 2006

About Me



Growing up in Seattle.  I learned to swim, walk logs, build, borrow and steal rafts.  With two home-built dinghies, a hydroplane and a run-about I explored the lakes and shorelines of the Greater Seattle area.  When a friend introduced me to white water kayaks in the mid-70's it stuck. 

I have spent the past 20 years exploring British Columbia's outer coast and chasing down Kayak Bill Davidson's many camps while putting together bits and pieces of a route from Olympia to Prince Rupert, BC.  I don't have the desire to do it in one fell swoop so it is a trip here and a trip there.  When complete it will encompass the entire Canadian west coast.  In the meantime, it is a collection of visits and learnings as time allows.  

I recently retired after #OptingOutside as an REI employee for 47 years.  REI enabled me to hike, climb, cycle, ski, hang glide and kayak.  I enjoy writing and I am a member of Washington Water Trails, BC Marine Trails Association, BCMTA Coastal Journey Team, The Mountaineers and North Sound Sea Kayaking Association.  Currently I paddle a Sterling Grand Illusion.  When I’m not paddling I write what pleases me.

 

I also have another blog that nearly dodges kayaking altogether.  It is a smattering of things that amuse me.  Visit it here: Flashbacks - Rumors, Myths, Legends and Lies





Saturday, February 26, 2000

Susan Conrad ~ Adventure Kayaker

 

Photo by Steve Cormack

I was always deeply drawn to water, despite my parents’ efforts to instill a deep fear of water in me after a cousin had drowned.  I was that blue-lipped, shivering kid at the local pool or lake who insisted, “I wasn’t cold.”  You couldn’t get me out of the water.  I spent countless idle afternoons playing with toy boats high in the creeks and ponds below our house—out of my parents’ view.  It felt like a secret, magical, and yes—forbidden—world to me, where I often found solace and healing.

I discovered whitewater rafting in college in southern Oregon in the mid 1980s. I really knew just enough to be dangerous.  The rafts were fun, but I kept watching the little whitewater kayaks, nimbly darting in and out of small river features, playing, rolling, and just having a great time. I thought, “THAT’S what I WANT to do!”  Pretty quickly, I switched from rafting to whitewater kayaking and continued to run rivers big and small for decades.  I ran a class V river once, just to say I did it.  Never again.

I was first introduced to sea kayaking in landlocked Montana in 1991, and that was a huge game-changer for me.  I immediately recognized its potential for solitude and reflection.  Transitioning from barely being able to cram a small lunch in my whitewater kayak to packing everything I needed to survive (and thrive) into the sea kayak’s watertight hatches led me to taking off for days, weeks, and eventually months at a time on wilderness kayak adventures.  I realized I had a penchant for long-distance paddling when I coerced a couple of girlfriends to paddle the entire length of Flathead Lake with me in one day. We put in at the south end of the lake near Polson, MT, and ended, nearly 30 miles later, at the small community of Somers on the lake’s north end.  I was exhausted, but exhilarated.

Flathead Lake, MT

From 1991-1999, I was a kayak guide on the big lakes and rivers in Montana.  I learned a lot through that experience, as the company’s owner taught her newbie guides a fair bit about boat control, self and assisted rescues, and the like.  I had a “somewhat solid” whitewater kayak roll, and that skill transferred to the longer, more lissome kayaks fairly easily.

But it wasn’t until I started my own kayak company that I sought out more professional instruction.  In 2000, I became an ACA Open Water Coastal (Level IV) certified instructor.  It was one of the best things I’ve ever done to increase my safety—and the safety of others—on the water.  In addition to refining all the fancy strokes, maneuvers, rolls, rescues, etc., I also learned a lot about applying those skills to REAL conditions, as well as group dynamics and learning styles.  Participating in several Swiftwater Rescue trainings put on by our local S&R as well as Wilderness First Responder courses that offered a water-rescue component, rounded out my skill set. 

Over the course of the last 40+ years, I’ve paddled the glacier-carved lakes of Montana, Idaho, and Wyoming. I’ve paddled with friends in Mexico, Belize, on the Atlantic and the Pacific. I’ve explored the Great Lakes and big rivers, from the muddy Missouri to the class-five whitewater rivers in Montana and Idaho. I paddled lagoons, estuaries, lakes, mill ponds, creeks, rivers, bays, and pools. 

I have a love affair with the Great Bear Rainforest along BC’s central coast and have completed several two-week trips in that area.  But it’s the point-to-point, long-distance hauls that intrigue me the most.  In 2010, I paddled the Inside Passage solo from Anacortes to Juneau.  At 49 years young, I was simply a woman on a mission: to see if I could do it.  I did, and it was life-changing. Years later, after rereading Audrey Sutherland’s book “Paddling North,” I was so taken by this woman’s accomplishments.  A petite, grey-haired woman, paddling tens of thousands of solo miles—in an inflatable kayak—in her 60s, 70s, and early 80s!  I felt strongly that the world needed to know more about this unsung hero, and decided I would recreate her route to Sitka, and write about my experience of recreating her experience.  So, in 2022, I set off from San Juan Island and paddled solo, approximately 1,200 miles to Sitka, largely using the route she detailed in “Paddling North,” visiting many of the same campsites, hot springs, cabins, and communities along the way that she did, as well as interviewing people who remembered her coming through many years earlier.  It was a profound experience.  I hope to have the book wrapped up in a few months. Finding a publisher will be the next challenge. Stay tuned!

What I've Learned from Adventure Kayaking and Associated Thoughts

I’ve learned to be comfortable with the uncomfortable.  Adventure paddling is going to have unknowns; that’s what makes it an adventure!  Embracing discomfort, not knowing exactly where your next campsite might be, screaming at the wind, etc., are all part of this nautical chess game.  In today’s complex world, the simplicity of facing the next challenge, of finding shelter, staying hydrated, fed, and safe, feels like a relief.  And I truly enjoy what I refer to as “wilderness nesting.”  Making a camp a cozy home for the night, and leaving no trace that I was there when I paddle away. 

I’ve also learned a lot about dealing with my fears.  When things get dicey on a trip, I’ve learned to categorize my fears, which puts them in perspective.  I ask myself if the fear I’m experiencing is a real, valid threat, or simply my assumption that something or someone might harm me.  For example, while camping in bear country my mind can go bonkers, so I have to ask myself if a bear really, truly is in the campsite.  Usually not, so I compartmentalize that fear, practice proper bear protocol, and carry on.  An on-water example could be dealing with building seas.  Fear can be paralyzing in this scenario.  But I’m not in the water; I’m still upright.  Keep paddling. Lean forward.  Stash that fear and envision myself safely landing in the lee of the wind and waves.