Monday, June 16, 2025

West Coast of Aristazabal, Price & Athlone Islands – A Field Guide for Paddlers Includes Rennison and Anderson Islands




West Coast of Aristazabal, Price & Athlone Islands –

A Field Guide for Paddlers

Includes Rennison and Anderson Islands


Why?
This guide is chapter 2 of an effort started in 2011 which sought to fill in some gaps in the Wild Coast series of guides by John Kimantas.

The 2011 effort resulted in West Coast of Banks Island – A Field Guide for Paddlers.  Like the Banks Island guide, areas covered in The Wild Coast Volume II are not included in this chapter, except by reference.

Who?
In 2012 nine members of the Nanaimo Paddlers club decided to survey the western shores of Aristazabal (including all of Rennison Island and Anderson Islands), Price and Athlone Islands.  It was a good test for the campsites as eight tents needed to be accommodated.  All members of the group contributed to the gathering of information.  Most of the photographs were taken by Geoff Mumford and Karina Younk.  Most of the pre-trip survey preparation and post-trip organization of the information was done by Reale Emond and Glenn Lewis.  


Overview of the surveyed area
From Oswald Point on the northwest corner of Rennison Island to Cape Mark southwest of Athlone Island is about 80nm going more or less directly.  However, those wanting a shorter open water crossing of Laredo Sound at the south end of Aristazabal and an alternative to the 8-9 nm crossing of Milbanke Sound at the south end of Price will need to paddle an additional 15-20 nm.  The area is isolated but not so remote or unoccupied as Banks Island.  Sports fishers from the North King Lodge located in Borrowman Bay on Aristazabal Island will be seen from the north end of Aristazabal down at least as far as Clifford Bay.  Similarly, the West Coast Resorts lodge near Athlone Island spread their guests between Cape Swain and Cape Mark.  In an area that is several hours away from the life boat stationed in Bella Bella, the presence of sports fishers provides some additional support should an emergency arise.

The survey area is uniformly quite flat and is largely part of a formation known as the Milbanke Strandflat.  This means that shallow waters extend west of the main shore line.  Between Cape Mark and Oswald Point there are between 500-1000 islands or islets and perhaps twice that number of rocks and reefs, mostly within a mile of the main islands.  Most of the time, paddlers will be either fully or partially protected from sea states farther to the west.  Another benefit of the low topography is that most of the clouds that will drop rain on the hills and mountains to the east carry on by without stopping.  Ocean swell that was often substantially blocked by Haida Gwaii further to the north becomes more noticeable as one moves south from Clifford Bay on Aristazabal.
We found the area relatively easy to paddle for a western exposure, mainly due to the large stretches of inshore paddling available that were fully protected and the relatively short exposures to the open ocean.  Paddling the area does require open water crossings of Laredo Channel (about 4.5 nm), Laredo Sound (about 6.5 nm from the south end of Aristazabal over to Price going directly), Milbanke Sound (about 5 nm from Langford Cove on Price Island to Salal Island or 8-9 nm going directly from the south end of Price Island to Athlone Island).  Aside from the presence of sports fishers, the area shows few signs of human use except for two cabins near the northern end of Aristazabal and a whale observation post at Ulric Point.  Weather information comes from the Klemtu repeater in the northern sections and the Calvert Island repeater further south; reception is generally quite good.

Weather
Aristazabal and Rennison Islands are in the southeast corner of the South Hecate weather reporting district.  Often weather changes will come from the west along a front that tends northeast to southwest and the timing of the arrival of these changes is relatively easy given the many weather stations to the north and west.  (See the Banks Island guide for greater detail on this point.)  From the south end of Aristazabal down to Cape Mark is the very northern extremity of the Central Coast from McInnes Island to Pine Island district and what is happening around Price Island is often substantially different from what is happening near the entrance to Queen Charlotte Strait.  We found the data from the South Hecate buoy (about 25 nm southwest from Kettle Inlet or 35 nm west of Rudolf Bay) to be quite useful in squaring variations between the forecasts for South Hecate and the Central Coast.  The West Sea Otter buoy is also sometimes useful in determining where the weather was changing as one moved north from Queen Charlotte Strait.

As noted above, the large amount of offshore protection often means that rising weather has a much reduced effect on sea state.  As at Banks Island, the absence of highland and steep walled inlets near the coast means that inflow/outflow winds are not an issue.

Currents, Tides and Boomers
Variation in tide levels moderates as one moves south down the B.C. Coast.  A tide variation of 20 feet during spring tides at the north end of Banks Island becomes a variation of 16 feet at the north end of Aristazabal and 15 feet near Seaforth Channel.  It is not clear to us exactly what effect this has on the coast currents along the outer shores.  Wild Coast II notes that in Laredo Channel floods run for approximately eight hours and ebbs for four hours of the twelve-hour cycle.  Something similar seems to happen on the west coast of Aristazabal, particularly in Beauchemin Channel.  We think it was not an error that the British Admiralty charts called what are now the southern Anderson Islands, Rip Tide Islands.  While crossing from the southern Anderson Islands toward Aristazabal we encountered strong flood currents that slowed our progress to a crawl.  Farther south, currents are generally less of an issue, particularly in the ‘inside passage’ along the shore of Price Island.  We understand from others that conditions in Laredo Sound can become quite difficult either from the ebb tide meeting incoming swell or from winds that originate farther north in Laredo Channel.  The day we crossed was calm and serene.  A suggestion is to cross early in the morning and plan for either a small tide change or a flood.  Our experience was that the flood current was quite strong in Laredo Sound near Aristazabal.  It became increasingly weaker as we crossed to Price.  We also understand from others that ebb tides meeting incoming swell can create substantial unrest near the entrance to Milbanke Sound, and while this phenomena is not part of our experience, it does make sense.

For those staying in the lee of the many protective islands and reefs, boomers are generally not a large issue as much of the route can be done without exposure to swell.  However, for those staying farther offshore, vigilance is required as rocks and reefs are uncountable and the charts are not much assistance in locating many of them.

Access
Road access to the survey area does not exist.  B.C. Ferries provide regular service to Klemtu and Bella Bella which are the closest access points.  It is about 20 nm from Klemtu to Wilby Point (a good spot to make a choice to either head north to Ulric Pt. or South to Weeteeam Bay or Higgins Passage). Klemtu has two choices for ferry passengers.  The Queen of Chilliwack (Discovery Coast Passage) lands in the village of Klemtu and launching is possible nearby.  The Northern Adventure (Inside Passage Port Hardy/Prince Rupert) stops at Klemtu, going north and south every second week at the new terminal a mile or two north of the village.  Loading and launching is possible under the ferry ramp at the new terminal; it is not a perfect place and is considerably more easily done on a rising tide and at higher tide levels.  From McLaughlin Bay it is about 21 nm to Cape Mark and about 24 nm to Langford Cove on the east coast of Price Island.  At higher tides the landing immediately south of the McLaughlin terminal is quite decent, and it is serviceable at lower tides.

Charts
The charts for Rennison, Aristazabal and Price Islands are based on datum described as either unknown, or NAD 27 and are of a 1:77 k scale.  Notes indicated that locations on Price might be out by 150 metres.  Detail for these islands, particularly detail of the many islets, islands, reefs and rocks, is scant and often difficult to follow.  There are some better scale charts for Clifford and Weeteeam Bays which we found useful.  We also relied on printed copies of Google satellite photos which were usually substantially more helpful than the chart.  For Price Island we relied entirely on enlarged Google satellite photos (2.5 nm per 11”x18” sheet) which we had marked with longs and lats, taken from a terrestrial map to very good effect.  Using that level of detail we were able to transit the west coast of Price Island entirely within the protection of off-lying islands, rocks and reefs 90% of the time.  The chart for Athlone Island is a 1:40 k with recent survey data.

Communication and Assistance
Cellular service works at Klemtu and around Shearwater and Bella Bella but, so far as we know, not otherwise.  VHF radio reception of weather reports is generally quite acceptable so we assume that communication with Prince Rupert Coast Guard radio would be similar.  There is a lifeboat station at Bella Bella which should be able to provide rescue service within about three hours to the northern end of Aristazabal and perhaps as quickly as one and one half hours to the Cape Mark area.  Most likely a call for assistance would be responded to by someone from one of the fishing lodges at Borrowman Bay, if you were in the northern half of Aristazabal, or at St Johns Harbour, if you were near Athlone.  When on the west coast of Price Island, help might be a bit slower in coming.  While the area is not so isolated as the outer coast farther north, we remain of the view that paddlers should be prepared to get themselves safely ashore and secure without outside assistance in the expectation that help will come but might take a while.

Terrestrial wildlife
As expected, wolves seem to be the dominant large species throughout the area although we did see some bear sign.  The southwestern shore of Aristazabal was home to several groups of sandhill cranes which seemed to be using the place for their summer home.  These large birds have a very distinctive call.  For those interested in further reading, a recently published book by Ian McAllister, Following the Last of the Wild Wolves (2011) is a fascinating account of his experiences with wolves in the Central Coast written in non-scientific language.  There is also a substantial body of scientific work on Central Coast wolves and their environment.  A good place to start looking for this material might be the Rain Coast Conservation Society.  Our experience is that not uncommonly in the morning you will notice wolf tracks around your camp that weren’t there the night before.  Spending a bit of time trying to understand these animals and thinking about sharing their territory in a relatively benign way is, in our view, a good idea.  McAllister says that wolves eat bears which probably accounts for the general lack of these animals where wolf packs are living.

Leave no trace
Except for the site on the more northerly Anderson Island (noted in Wild Coast II) and the Cape Mark site, you will find little sign of previous usage at resting or camping sites.  There are signs of First Nations use and there is an Indian Reservation in the Weeteeam Bay area but no sign of recent occupation.  Two of the sites we describe also contain what is left of campsites created and used by Kayak Bill (Bill Davidson) until his passing about 10 years ago.  We hope that sites will be left the way they were found out of respect for those who came before and as a legacy for those who will come after.

Fishing
Our group ate fish when we wanted it (about 2/3 of the time) including several salmon and many ling cod and rock fish.  One of our group fished for crab with what is best described as dogged determination.  For the most part, the efforts were fruitless and we ate only one Dungeness.  We also saw little sign of crabs although there are many areas where the bottom and shoreline would seem to be favourable.  We saw no sea otters until we were in Queen’s Sound so they weren’t the reason for the want of crab.  Shellfish are frequently available, but DFO has closed the whole area permanently as they apparently don’t test for PSP.

First Nations and Conservancies
There are no conservancies on Aristazabal Island and only a small Indian Reservation in the Weeteeam Bay area.  The islands 5-10 nm west of Aristazabal are grouped into two conservancies and one Indian Reservation.  The north end of Price Island is part of a conservancy and all of Athlone Island is part of the Outer Central Coast Islands Conservancy.  The lack of Indian reservation lands in the survey area should not be taken as an indication that the area does not have a long and active history of First Nations use.  More information about conservancies in the area is available on the B.C. government parks website.

The Survey
We had little definite information about camping opportunities on Rennison Island or the west coast of Aristazabal prior to our departure.  Some of our group had paddled the west coast of Price and Athlone before so we at least had some confidence that we would find some place to camp in these areas.  We had identified about 60 potential sites in the survey area from Google satellite images, which varied between so-so and quite good imagery (better than Banks Island).  As is usually the case, many of the ‘beaches’ identified in the photos were large piles of logs.  As with Banks Island, we did find good, or at least useable, camping sites at appropriate locations.

GPS points
Some have been taken from the chart or from Google satellite photographs and some were recorded at the various locations.  We are satisfied the co-ordinates provided will get you close enough to each place that it will be obvious where to go.  The main GPS we were using to record site locations quit and the information was not recoverable; accordingly we had to do as well as we could after returning.  There is a lesson here for those who rely mainly on electronics.

 

Rennison Island and the Anderson Islands

Although Rennison Island would probably be a side trip on most paddlers’ itineraries, it is the first place to stop for those coming directly from Campania Island, and the presence of a good site at the north end of Rennison is a valuable asset. Those crossing Caamaño Sound should be alert to the possibility of strong tidal currents which may have a significant impact on crossing times.



52° 50.966'N/129° 20.428'W—r1
Along the north shore of Rennison Island, about ½ nm southeast of Oswald point is a northeast-facing bay with an all-tide Westcoast sand beach. This is an excellent stopping point for those coming from the north. We thought the camping was better on the more easterly part of the beach. There is a good creek in another northeasterly facing cove a little more than 1/2 nm to the east. This is a well-protected beach where it needs to be.



Beach north end of Rennison Island


52° 50.468'N/129° 21.230'W—r2
On the west coast of Rennison Island, east of the island at approximately 52º 50.5’ N is a west-facing bay with three coves coming off of it. In the southeast portion of the bay is a west facing cove with three westerly facing beaches. The most southeasterly (centre) of these beaches is a granite cobble beach that is very protected. Shown in the right of the photo, at the top of the beach there is room for 3 or 4 tents and potential in the upland to create some flat tent sites.


Cove on the west coast of Rennison Island


52° 48.557'N/129° 21.807'W—r3
‘Karina Islets’
South of Rennison Island there is an island about 1/2 nm in length that is marked ‘250’ on the chart. From the northwest corner of this island, an archipelago of small islets extends about 1/2 nm toward the northwest. The more northerly and westerly of these small islets form a northeast-facing shore. Toward the centre of this shore is a small islet with a sand and rock beach that is an exceptionally pretty site. There is camping on the sand and in the upland. This site is somewhat exposed to offshore weather.

Karina Islets


52˚47.332'N / 129˚21.118'W - an1
The site identified in Wild Coast II on the north shore of the largest of the Anderson Islands is an excellent choice for this area with an all tide beach.  There is room for 3 or 4 tents in the upland near to the cabin, and we were able to make space for 4 more on the top of the beach which survived spring tides.  The numerous Anderson islands and islets between 46’ and 47’ north are an interesting place to paddle and have some potential for camping but at the risk of being stranded at lower tides.

Campsite on north shore of largest Anderson Islands

52˚ 45.044'N / 129˚ 22.510'W - an2
At 52º 45’ N, the Anderson Island marked ‘195’ has an excellent sand beach at the west end of its north shore.  With a 5.4 m tide the night before, there was room for 3 or 4 tents on sand.  The beach has better sun exposure than the site on ‘180’, three miles to the north and is similarly well protected from most winds.  There is no upland development and with the highest tides, camping would be difficult.


Sand beach on north shore of Anderson Island marked ‘195’


Aristazabal Island

The west coast of Aristazabal from Ulric Pt. to Kettle Inlet has mainly cobble beaches and generally poor camping opportunities. Our choices for the north end of Aristazabal would be one of the Rennison Island or Anderson Island sites.


52˚ 41.732'N / 129˚ 14.471'W
We found two sites proximate to Kettle Inlet which are both quite serviceable. Along the south shore of the inlet, not far from the beginning of Aristazabal Island, is a good, fairly steep beach that has a mixture of sand, gravel and smaller cobble. We found room for 4 tents on sand with a 5.4 m tide and there were other good single tent sites. Across the inlet is an excellent creek shown on the chart. The problem with this site is that while launching at a .4 metre tide was quite easy, we needed to paddle 1.5 nm west before we could turn south as the string of islands that form the outer shore of Kettle inlet joined at low tide.

Kettle Inlet south shore, east-facing site

52° 41.469'N/129° 14.391'W—a2
From the above site we were able to walk to a west-facing bay entered along about 52º 41.5’. A site on the south shore about halfway into the bay has a beach composition similar to the above site, good beach camping and better upland potential than the site in Kettle Inlet. The access to this site appears to be all tides through a small channel about 30 feet wide. The camping area is well protected from NW winds.

Kettle Inlet south shore, west-facing site


Clifford Bay

52° 36.150'N/129° 10.400'W(NAD27) - a3
If you have chart 3710, enter from the north between Woodcock Islands marked ‘140’ and ‘100’ to a beach which is sand up to about 2.8 metres and then some larger boulders before becoming a sand beach again. Camping would be possible on sand at tides less than about 4.5 metres (Beauchemin Channel). Flux creek at the head of Clifford Bay is a good source of water but the bay dries for a very long way out at other than higher tides.

Clifford Bay Sites

52° 35.100'N/129° 09.200'W(NAD27) - a4
The best site in the Clifford Bay area is on the northeast corner of an island marked ‘145’ approximately .2 nm southeast of Babbage Island (marked ‘200’ on the charts).  This northeasterly facing bay boasts a fine sand beach with good beach and upland camping.  This site may have a long history of human usage.  The site is well protected from most winds.


52° 33.540'N/129° 08.976'W—a5

From Clifford Bay we made our way inside of the Normansell Islands, just, with about 2.6 m of water (Beauchemin Channel ).  The most southerly large Normansell island has a bay on its northeast corner with a beach that is not too long at lower tides and is quite useable.  There is camping for 4 or 5 tents on sand.


We expected to find a campsite or two along the SW shore of Aristazabal south of the Normansells, in Bent Harbour, or in the area of the Thistleton Islands, but were unsuccessful. We planned on checking a possibility in the protected west-facing bay of the largest Arriaga Island, but by the time we were in the area, the NW wind had risen and no volunteer came forward to challenge the whitecaps.

Weeteeam Bay

We found two good sites in Weeteeam Bay, both in the SE section.

52° 29.145'N/129° 00.517W—a6
On the west side of the largest island a little to the SE of Weeteeam Bay is a fine sand beach that has the remains of a Bill Davidson (Kayak Bill) camp. This beach is well protected from ocean swell but exposed to SE winds. There is extensive beach camping and some opportunities above the high tide line—a very pretty spot. This site would be the first choice for most people visiting this area. About 1 nm north of this site a strong creek that is a good source of water enters behind a small islet.

Kayak Bill Site

Weeteeum Bay Sites

52° 29.479'N/129° 0.818'W—a7
There is a second northeasterly facing site approximately .3 nm to the NNW of this site on the island immediately across the channel. This secondary site is mainly sand interspersed with some rocks, but it is quite useable. It has good beach camping and some upland opportunities. The advantage of this site is that it is protected from SE winds and would be our choice if we were expecting to be spending some time in poor weather.

52° 27.687'N/128° 58.146'W—a8
On the east coast of Aristazabal is an east-facing cove, immediately north of the long fingered cove shown on the chart, that is another Kayak Bill site. We had planned to stay at this site for an early morning start to cross over to Price Island. We found that the top of the beach was quite rocky and the areas that were sandy were covered with a very heavy load of drift wood, logs and flotsam. With not too much effort a few tent sites could have been cleared.
Kayak Bill Site East Side of Aristazabal Island



Price Island

Our plan had us crossing directly from the Southeast corner of Aristazabal over to the Clifford Bay area but poor camping at the site we expected to stay at and flat seas with a flood tide saw us cross to the Higgins Passage site instead.  It turned out to be a bit of good luck.  On an early trip down the west coast of Price we had tended to stay outside of the rocks and reefs as suggested by John Kimantas, and there was little help from the chart in navigating closer to shore.  This time, we abandoned the chart and relied instead on blow ups from Google Earth satellite images which we overlaid with longs and lats.  The result was surprising, in a very positive way.

We found that it is quite possible to paddle about 90% of the west coast of Price Island protected from swell and often wind.  The route is a meander in the lee of hundreds of islets and rocks, for us mostly on flat water.  These conditions were not just good fortune either as we were weathered ashore for a day at the campsite at approximately 52° 23’ N during which southerly winds in the 20-25 knots range had ample opportunity to set up a following day of 2+ metre swells.

Price Island is, for me, the best place on the coast if you like to meander among islets in a rugged and isolated place.  The main challenge to the route is trying not to get lost among the islets, many bays and coves.  Even with photos with a scale of about 2.5 nm per 17” sheet it was sometimes difficult not to get a bit confused, and we found ourselves resorting to the GPS and comparing it to the lats and longs we had marked on the photos.

Our suggestion is to plan your trip so that you will be paddling during times when tide levels are quite high to take maximum advantage of the most protected channels.  The site at the west entrance to Higgins Passage is described in Wild Coast II. A very pretty site on what appears to be a very large midden.

For a break there is a nice small beach at 52° 25.198'N / 128° 46.012'W that is sandy and very sheltered.  Camping opportunities on the beach would disappear with higher tides and upland camping is possible but difficult.

Rudolf Bay has a marine trail site marked in Wild Coast II and there is a beach in the southerly cove inside the bay that is very protected.  The beach is clay/sand and it would be very long at low tides.  Camping would be possible on grass above the high tide line but expect to share your site with more than a few bugs.  Some large animals appear to use the grassy areas for foraging.  Not a site we would chose if carrying on a little farther south were an option, but a very well protected place if one were weathered ashore.

52° 23.270'N/128° 45.300'W—p1
Here is the best beach on the west coast of Price Island.  It is easily identifiable on the Google satellite images and offers plenty of room among the drift logs for camping at all but the highest tides.  We were there for a day with strong southerly winds and significant swell on the ‘outside’ and our surf never got above about 6”.  We found our camp in the south corner of the beach to be very protected from the wind.  At the highest tides, immediately south of the main beach is a small pocket of sand (behind a very small islet) which would be suitable for camping at all summer levels.  This pocket would be hard to land at but at spring tides boats could be left on the logs on the main beach and gear easily carried the short distance to the campsite.  Alternatively, the lee side of the islet has a couple of spots in the grass and gravel.

Best beach on west coast of Price Island

Paddling in the lee of the islands south of this site between 52° 22-23’ is possible only at higher tides but it is an interesting maze if you have the time and water levels are useful.

The campsite just described is the best one on the west coast of Price Island, but it would be better if it were about 5 nm farther south.  To get from here to somewhere other than Price Island, two of the choices are to cross from Day Point over to Athlone Island, a distance of 8+ miles of open water, or paddle part way up the east coast of Price and cross a shorter, more protected, route to Salal Island.  Both would benefit from a starting campsite toward the south end of Price.  On an earlier trip we had spent quite a lot of time checking out the southwest shore of Price below 52° 19’ and found no good place for a group.  We ended up in Muir Cove at a place that is remarkable as the worst camp site I have endured on our coast.  We have two suggestions and one place that we didn’t check which might work:

52º 18.978'N 128º 43.576'W—p2
At approximately 52º 19.1 N 128º43.7 W is the entrance to a northwesterly facing cove that we found to be without swell.  At the head of this cove the beach is sand below about ½ tide and cobble and boulders above that level.  There is a weak creek toward the more northerly side of the head of the bay and beside the creek a tree where you will find room for a couple of tents on grass.  There are other similar spots a little to the south of the creek which would also be quite useable.  Tent sites appeared to be above summer highs and this site would be a preferable choice to Cove protected from swell on west coast of Price Island Langford cove at spring tides. It is not the most scenic site on this coast but it is in the right place.

Cove protected from swell on west coast of Price Island

52º 17.127'N 128º 41.143'W—p3
Near the west entrance to the channel between Day Island and Price Island is a SE facing cove located at 52º 17.127’ N 128º 41.143 W which may have a beach and possibly a place to camp. We did not check this spot out as we hadn’t identified it as part of our survey, but one of our group thought that it might be okay and some people we spoke to after returning were also aware of this cove as a possibility. This is not the sort of place a paddler would want to rely on, given the general inhospitality of this shore, but if you are passing by it might be worth taking a look at.

52º 20.149'N 128º 37.502'W—p4
We stayed at the head of the south arm of Langford Cove where we found a beach that was sand below about ½ tide and then cobble and boulders with areas of gravel above that. The beach was fairly flat and it was not difficult to manage the boats. There is plenty of room on the beach at this site at times of neaps but at spring tides most, if not all, of the beach would disappear and camping in the upland would only be a choice with considerable effort.
If you are crossing Milbanke Sound from here and like to fish, we caught a couple of salmon near to Boulder Head.

Beach at the south arm of Langford Cove


Athlone Island

In 2012, there was only one lodge in the St. John Harbour area and it was located on the east side of Wurtele Island in Louisa Cove. Expect to find sport fishers from the lodge spread out between Cape Swain and Cape Mark. We failed to determine how much water is needed to get through the narrows between Wurtele and Athlone Island, but we think that transit is possible except at very low tides.


52º 13.261 N 128º 26.349 W—at1
The marine trail site marked in Wild Coast II at the entrance to Yaaklele Lagoon is an excellent well-protected site. There is a small cove a little to the west that looks like it might be the site but beware as it dries and could leave a paddler stranded. The beach a little farther east offers a good gravel/sand all-tide beach with good beach camping and opportunity in the upland for several tents with little effort needed to clear some sites. A nice place to stop for a while, even if you don’t intend to camp.
Site at entrance to Yaaklele Lagoon

52º 11.149 N 128º 28.853 W—at2
In Dryer Cove, immediately south of Islet ‘40’ is a northeast-facing cove with a very nice beach and good camping.  Since the fishing lodges have left Dryer Cove this has become, once again, a wilderness site isolated from the bustle from the lodge on Wurtele Island.
Site in northeast-facing cove within Dryer Cove

Wurtele Island

52º 10.449'N 128º 30.733'W—w1
Near to the south end of Wurtele Island at approximately 52º 10.4’ is a west-facing bay that has the look of a shore fully exposed to the open ocean.  However if the tides are right and you are looking for a small gem on the edge of the world, this might be the place.  If you enter the bay and follow close to the north shore you will pass some rocks and then a small peninsula that juts SW from Wurtele Island.  Immediately east of the peninsula is a small islet, barely noticeable on the chart.  On the east side of this islet is a small sand beach.  Except at the highest tides, this beach is accessible only from the SW and not from the south.  Even the route described might be unavailable at low tides.  We were there when there was about 2.6 m of water (using the Gosling Island tides) and landing was on boulders which was made easy by the gentle slope to the beach and absence of swell.  The sand would not be accessible until the tide was about 3.5 metres.  This is a site that would be most useable if your timing allowed coming and going at relatively high tides.


Wurtele Island site

52º 09.132'N 128º 31.826'W—cm1
The campsite at Cape Mark, noted as a marine trail site in Wild Coast II, is one of the few sites in this area with established upland camping.  It is located on the NE corner of Island ‘35’.  Access from the north is possible only at higher tides and even then at the risk of a very long carry to the main beach.  The better choice for access is to paddle south between ‘35’ and’46’ and enter via a small channel from the SE.  This is a large sand/gravel beach with developed upland sites.  A difficulty with this site is that at tides below about half, the carry north would be daunting and even the channel to the SE becomes very rough with boulders.

For those who will be landing or launching at lower tides, consideration might be given to the site on the SW corner of Athlone, described in Wild Coast II.  Both sites are very attractive.

Cape Mark Site


We hope that making this information available will not only facilitate the journey for others, but also bring some awareness to a large and exceptionally beautiful part of our remote coast. An area that would take a very long time to recover from misuse or environmental degradation.
















Sunday, June 15, 2025

West Coast Banks Island - A Field Guide for Paddlers

 




Why?

Since the publication of the Wild Coast Series by John Kimantas and Boat Camping Haida Gwaii by Neil Fraser, kayakers have been able to paddle almost all of the west coast of British Columbia more safely and enjoyably. A gap in the Wild Coast series, quite understandable given the size of the project, is a lack of information for most of the west coast of the outer islands from Larsen Harbour on Banks Island to Cape Calvert on Calvert Island. The information provided here aims to fill part of that gap. Areas already covered by the Wild Coast series are not included.

Who?

Four members of the Nanaimo Paddlers (its what it sounds like) decided to survey the western shores of Banks and Aristazabal Islands in the summer of 2011 and make the collected information available to those who can use it. The collective experience of those involved in the survey and preparation of this field guide includes paddling all but about 60 miles of the western shores of British Columbia South of Prince Rupert and Cape Knox to Tofino. An injury resulted in the trip being diverted homeward after the completion of the west coast of Banks Island leaving Aristazabal for another day.


Overview of the surveyed area

From Deadman Point on the northern tip of Banks to the area around the southern tip is between 45-50 nautical miles going more or less directly. Subjectively, aside from headlands like Cape Scott, Cape Cook and Estevan Point, we found the area comparable to the west coast of Vancouver Island north of Tofino in terms of challenges for the touring paddler.

The area is very isolated and paddlers should plan to look after themselves, expecting help from outside to come, but perhaps not in a very timely way. In 2011, there were no people living along the west coast of Banks and we encountered only one sail boat and no sports or commercial fish boats near to shore. The shore shows very few signs of post contact historical development. In short, it is an isolated wilderness experience. Leave your ego and schedule at home, bring an extra VHF, and enjoy.

Weather

The best time to find warmer temperatures, reasonably long periods of daylight and less low pressure systems is between the later part of July until about the end of August. Our experience is that it takes about two weeks longer to warm up in the central and north coast area than it does on the west coast of Vancouver Island. This varies from year to year and if you have flexibility, keeping an eye on the water temperature of the many weather buoys in the area can help you decide how fast it is warming as the summer season approaches and develops. Expect air temperatures to be heavily influenced by sea water temperatures at both ends of the daily cycle.


We have found that when paddling for periods longer than a week, it is likely on our coast that the trip will be punctuated by a variety of weather conditions. The goal is not to avoid being in the area when sea states are likely to be beyond ones comfort zone, but to avoid being on the water during those conditions. In many respects, due to the weather reporting areas, availability of timely weather information from the west and local topography, the survey area is one of the easier places on the exposed coast to achieve this goal.

For purposes of the marine forecast, Hecate Strait is divided into its north and south sections. This makes the area covered by the forecast among the smallest of the districts on the west coast. Given the variability that can occur within a reporting district, this makes it a little easier to interpret when the events described in the forecast will likely affect the spot where you are located.

Most weather comes generally from the west. The survey area has three lines of ocean buoys to the west over which that weather must pass before it arrives. Inshore are a line of buoys from Central Dixon in the north to West Sea Otter in the south. Further west there is a line of buoys from West Dixon in the north to South Moresby in the south. Further off shore North, Central and South Nomads are useful for advanced warning. Also to the west are the land based weather stations at Rose Spit, Sandspit Airport, Cumshewa Inlet and Cape St. James. Bonilla Island can be useful for keeping aware of rising north westerlies. These reporting stations are updated regularly and often are not far removed from real time. Paddlers are encouraged to know the location of all of these stations, not only generally but in relation to where you are at as you move through the area.

Banks Island is relatively low in elevation along its western shore and there are not wind creating inlets. This means that unless one is in line with potential outflow or inflow winds from Douglas Channel, local topographic effects on the wind will be relatively minor. The lack of significant inlets also means that generally tidal streams flow parallel with the shore and the phenomena of difficult sea state associated with tides ebbing out of inlets meeting income swell is not a large issue. A notable exception is the west entrance to Otter Pass. We found these factors make it easier than most places on the exposed coast for those who want to predict accurately the timing of the changing weather and sea state to avoid unfavourable conditions.

Currents, Tides and Boomers

In most places on the North Coast tides and associated currents are a significant factor for paddlers and Banks Island is a fine example. Daily water level changes on the west coast will often be between 15 and 20 feet. Our experience was that tidal currents along the coast are often quite strong, occasionally in the 1 -2 knot range. Also the large variation in water levels makes it difficult to find beaches that are suitable throughout the tide range. There are not a lot of choices for camping on Banks Island and during Spring tides, the areas at the top of the beach tend to disappear and the areas at the bottom tend to be mud or rock. A suggestion is to plan your trip (if you are going from North to South) so that tides are tending toward neaps and high water is in the morning when you will be launching. This will not only make launching (and landing later in the day) easier but also minimize late night moves to higher ground. Another advantage of this timing is that you will be paddling with ebb currents, a factor that can potentially double your speed compared to paddling against the current.

During our time paddling along the shore of Banks, we generally had relatively calm sea states and to do our survey we stayed near to the shore and among the many islands. The area nearer to shore tends to be shallow and the potential for scraping on rocks greater than we have experienced any other place on the coast. In rougher sea states the potential for settling on an unfriendly rock with poor outcome needs to be given appropriate consideration.


Access

Road access to the survey area does not exist. The closest road accesses are Prince Rupert, about 60 km from the north end of Banks Island, Kitimat, around 100 kilometres from south end of Banks Island, and from Bella Coola, too far to contemplate.

From Port Hardy, BC ferries provides summer service every other day to Prince Rupert and from time to time to Klemtu. The North Co-op provides regular and reasonably priced water taxi service from Prince Rupert to Kitkatla, about 10nm from the north end of Banks Island, and Hartley Bay, about 26nm from the south end of Banks Island.

Charts

The Canadian Hydrographic Service is in the process of updating the charts for the area to the 1-40K scale with considerable new survey data. As of early 2011 they had new issues south as far as the southern end of Banks Island except for the middle portion of the west coast. Google earth provides poor to reasonably clear satellite images for much of the survey area which we found useful for those areas that had poorer scale (and older survey information) charts .

Communication and Assistance

No effort was made to use a cell phone but it is near to inconceivable that one would work in the survey area. VHF radio communication for receiving weather reports and contacting Prince Rupert Coast guard radio is spotty. Most of the time we were receiving weather reports from the repeater at Cumshewa inlet on the Moresby Island. Frequently we needed to paddle to an exposed place in order to get reception and even then patience was required to hear the entire report.

Given the remoteness of the area, paddlers should expect that in good weather emergency assistance might be slow in coming and in poor conditions, slower. We think that paddlers should always be able to get themselves ashore and secure without assistance. Relying on help from others to get ashore runs a very high risk of having a poor outcome. We did not test whether Prince Rupert radio could hear us on channel 16 but it would frequently be the case that we would not hear their response and even if they could hear us it would likely take many hours, at least, before help could arrive in the event of emergency.

Terrestrial wildlife

As is typical of our coast, mice, crows or ravens are likely to cause the most unrest with your gear and food. There are also bears, cougars and wolves. Our experience is that wolves seem to be the dominant large animal, bears are rare on the outer coast and cougars even rarer (we saw no tracks of either bears or cougars). A wolf who ventured quite near to us seemed perplexed as to what we were and what we were doing in his space.

Leave no trace

The area is among the less used areas on our coast and when you arrive at a site there are likely to be few if any signs of recent usage. There are signs of earlier first nations use such as canoe runs, fish weirs and house sites. Sites should be left the way they were found. Given the size of the area and the light usage, human waste disposal is not much of an issue but unburned wood from campfires that have not been allowed to consume all of the fuel can be unsightly.

Fishing

We relied on fish for a large part of our protein and like other remote, exposed areas of the coast, rockfish, ling cod, snapper and often salmon are easy to catch if you have developed some technique. Shellfish are generally closed in areas of the coast where there is no testing (most of the west coast) so check before you leave home with DFO and be cautious should you choose to ignore their warnings. (Note: the only test station that I have come across on the coast for shellfish was in Larsen Harbour. Why DFO picked that place is a mystery.)

First Nations

There are no Indian reservation lands on the west coast of Banks Island. This is probably more of a reflection of provincial government policy many years ago than an indication that the area was not occupied and used for a very long time by First Nations people (see discussion of conservation areas below). If you find evidence of this early occupation, leave it undisturbed where it was found. The only other boaters that we encountered were a couple who research ancient canoe launches and weir areas based on rock ‘arrangements’, a number of which they had evidently found along Banks’ shores.

Conservation Areas

There are two provincially designated conservation areas in the area: the Banks Nii Luutiksm Conservancy covering over 19000 ha on the northwest portion of Banks Island, and the Lax Kul Nii Luutiksm/Bonilla Conservancy that covers Bonilla Island off the west coast of Banks. Both were designated in 2006 to preserve the biodiversity of the area and to protect representative coastal flora, fauna and species at risk. As the names suggest, the conservancies also have a long history of First Nations use. More information about these and other conservancies on the North Coast can be found on BC Parks website.

The Survey

We had access to little information about the west coast of Banks Island except that the area had a reputation for not having places to camp. Google photos for most of Banks vary between poor quality and so-so quality. Prior to leaving, from the charts and Google photographs we identified 73 potential beaches/camp sites along the shore and among the many islands and bays. Our goal was to do a fairly complete survey of the entire coast with the exception of some of the deeper inlets.

With a couple of exceptions, the places we identified turned out to be of no value for camping but the process of checking them out led us to places that were quite acceptable. As described below, we found suitable camp sites appropriately spaced along the entire shore. While we found suitable places to camp, it is useful to point out that the vast majority of the shoreline is rocky, inhospitable to kayaks and devoid of easy camping opportunities.

A note about GPS points

Our group was not fully co-ordinated in setting our GPS devices before leaving and the information given might be either NAD83, NAD27 or just an estimate from the chart which might be either NAD27 or NAD83. This potential variation will not have a huge effect but if you find yourself arriving at a site after marching 50 meters inland, you will know that you should have switched to NAD27. Most of the variation will be from east to west with very small differences north to south.



Banks Island: Northern Tip

 

As noted in Wild Coast II, there are several fine sand west coast style beaches along the north shore.An issue with these flat beaches is that with the large range of tide levels, it can be several hundred meters from camp to water if you hit it at low tide.


The first 2 sites marked moving west from Deadman Inlet are flat sandy beaches



53˚37.671’N / 130˚28.385/W

Deadman Inlet The long shallow beach near the west entrance to Deadman Inlet has 2 small fresh water creeks that drain the upland bog behind the beach


Beach at west side of Deadman Inlet(mid to high tide)


53˚37.900’N / 130˚31.240’W
For those who cringe at the thought of fine sand in their sleeping bag there is a steeper gravel beach 1.2 nm west of Deadman Inlet at 53º 37.90 N , 130º 31.24W. It appears to be clear to the lowest of tides and has a more substantial creek.


Gravel Beach West of Deadman Inlet

53˚37.149’N / 130˚33.316’W
Another possible campsite is located on a beach spit in an inlet about entered 1.7 nm west of Deadman Inlet; an abandoned hull adorns the sandflat behind the spit.

Beach Spit 1.7NM West of Deadman Inlet


53° 36.735'N/130° 33.979'W
Larsen Island
We got through the channel between Larsen Island and Banks Island with a foot or so to spare when the tide was about four meters at Griffith Harbour.  A boulder type beach is located on the outside of Larsen Island; a limited sand strip provides access to the upland beach, with potentially a few campsites. Outer islands and reefs provide protection from NW winds and waves.

Beach on outside of Larsen Island limited access through boulders-mid tide

We did not investigate the heads of Norway Inlet and Griffiths Harbour.


53° 33.671'N/130° 32.741'W
Solander Point
A tombolo on the south side of an inlet and just north of Solander Point provides a very pretty stop and a potential campsite for a few tents.  There may be freshwater sources further up the inlet.  Tombolo north of Solander Point.



53° 32.600'N / 130° 30.600'W
Sneath Islands
From Solander Point, staying in the lee of the Sneath Islands, to a south facing bay 1 nm east of Laverock Pt. there are 3-4 sandy campable beaches which appear capable of surviving all but the highest tides.  The Sneaths provide exceptional protection to these beaches. We were in this area when tide levels at Griffiths Harbour were near to 5 meters and commonly in the area in the lee of the Sneath Islands we could see a sandy bottom below us. What the beach Small protected beaches conditions are in this area with low tides east of Sneath Islands remains to be discovered by others.


53˚32.610'N / 130˚30.520'W
East of the largest of the Sneath Islands is a nice sandy beach without water but which appears to be campable at all but the highest tides.

Sand Beach East of the Largest Sneath Islands

53˚32.130'N / 130˚29.510'W
A Southwest facing inlet entered along 53˚32'N has a strong creek at its head and could be used for camping but the bottom is shallow and at lower tides it might be many hundreds of meters from the tent to the water.  There is a good and fairly well protected beach along the north shore of the inlet.


53° 29.410'N / 130° 25.730'W
Kingkown Inlet / Kirkendale Island
This large inlet deserves to be explored. Regrettably, except for the western islands, it was not for us to do.  The best place we found was on the southwest side of Kirkendale Island. The beach is mainly gravel with mud toward the bottom but has firm footing along one side at lower tides. There is room for 3 to 4 tents on the beach, and considerable potential on what may be a midden in the upland.  We survived camping on the beach with a 20.3 ft tide (at Griffiths Harbour) with low pressure and a south wind. The site is well protected from southeast weather.


Kirkendale campsite looking out at low tide


There are good creeks on the Banks Island shore to the north of Kirkendale; one is at the top of a pretty bay and lagoon at 53º 29.369’N/130º 25.766’W. 
Tidal currents around these islands can be quite strong and should be taken into consideration when visiting the area.


53°27.288'N / 130°23.684'W
Going south from Kingkown Inlet there is a south-facing bay.  That is the last place of refuge before Kelp Point.  This good-sized bay is spanned partway in by what may be a man-enhanced wall of rocks which create a large inner bay.  We stayed here due to deteriorating sea state, and the central of the three beaches survived a 21' tide at Griffiths Harbour.  The beach is sand/grit, a relatively short area of sand/boulders further down, and then a very long sand/mud lower beach.  If the goal of the rock wall was to create a large clam bed, it worked.  The site is accessible only with tides greater than 11.5' at Griffith Harbour. There is a large creek to the south of the campsite and an interesting tidal flat to the north.


Waiting for the tide, camp south of Kingkown Inlet.

From the previous site it is about 4.7 nm to Kelp Point without opportunity for shelter.  This is the longest fully exposed section of Banks Island.  With current against us, it took us about 2 ½ hours of steady paddling.  A good opportunity to pick up a coho.


53º 22.96'N / 130º 15.94'W
Kelp Point AKA Crap Camp
Approximately 1.7 nm east-southeast of Kelp Point is a south facing bay entered along 130º 16'.  Toward the head of this bay on the east shore is a sand/grit/gravel relatively steep beach which is accessible down to about 4.5feet (Griffiths Harbour).  The upper beach is strewn with drift wood and logs some of which will need to be moved a bit to make camping areas.  We had no difficulty clearing spots for four tents.  Once into the drift wood, the beach easily survived 21' at Griffiths Harbour.  There is freshwater a short paddle away.  This is by far the best site in this area that we found with the next good site being around 12nm south.


Beach and campsite (with some log moving) 1.7 nm southeast of Kelp Point



We could find no suitable site in the vicinity of Survey Bay.  There is freshwater a short paddle away.  This is by far the best site in this area that we found with the next good site being around 12nm south.  We could find no suitable site in the vicinity of Survey Bay.



53° 20.790'N/130° 10.200'W (NAD27)
Wreck Islands
We spent quite a long day checking out the area proximate to the Wreck Islands, Waller Bay and south as far as the larger bay entered along approximately 53º 14.5'N with limited success in finding good stops and campsites.  There is a very small beach patch of gravel above most tides which would be suitable for 2 or 3 tents (cozily spaced) at the end of a narrow west facing cove proximate to 53º20.79'N and 130º 10.2'W (NAD 27).  The top third of the beach is gravel, the middle third rock/gravel and bottom third extremely soft mud.  This is the sort of place that one would seldom choose as a goal but which could prove to be much appreciated, in an area with few places to land or camp, in a situation where sea conditions were deteriorating.  Bring your mosquito net and don’t expect to spend much time enjoying the view.


A refuge from deteriorating sea conditions


Going south there is a sand beach which is suitable for taking a break at tides below 4.5 meters (at Griffiths Harbour) at 53º 17'N 130º 5.7'W.  Above 4.5 meters is rock and we found no place to camp.  There is a creek a little to the east.



53º 15.130'N / 130º 1.400'W
Grief Point
Approximately midway between Grief and Spearer Points is a well protected bay entered along approximately 53º14.5'N.  This bay is generally southwesterly facing and there are some islands which divide it into westerly and easterly parts.  North of the easterly part is south facing inlet which at its head has a small river that drains several lakes shown on the chart.  The chart indicates a sand bottom, which seems unlikely and it shows that the inlet dries which might happen but for the flow of water from the small river.  Near the head of this inlet along the north shore you will find a small beach which is notable for the presence of an apple tree.  There are remnants of a boat launching channel with some cross beams for sliding a boat and near the high tide mark there are further beams and other remnants of usage within the last 100 years or so.  At high tides the beach disappears but in the upland there is room for several tents on a flat area that possibly has a much longer history than the more obvious recent use.  At higher tides it is possible to paddle up the river into the lake but show caution as at lower tides the route becomes a water fall.  We left at a fairly low tide and launching into the river on sea weed was relatively easy. 

We were very lucky to find this place which was shown to us by the only people we met on the outside of Banks.  A couple from Washington who have spent the last thirteen summers in their sailboat checking this area out happened to have an interest in archaeology and an intimate familiarity with the shoreline of this bay.  We never would have found this place without being taken there personally and we found no other good site between the Wreck Islands and Terror Point.  The place is a little easier to spot now since we cleared a few branches to facilitate access to the upland and make some room for boats.  At times of neap tides there would be room on the beach to camp which has patches of gravel.  There is a substantial creek with good water at the top of the inlet.



Creek at Head of Inlet


Remnants of boat launch




Camp at head of inlet

There is a west facing bay entered along 53º 11'N which has a sand beach along its south shore.  This is one of the few places that looks like a beach on Google, the problem being that it is only serviceable at medium to low tides and we found no place that would survive a higher tide.



53º 22.96'N / 130º 15.94'W
Terror Point
Terror Point is on an island marked ‘61' on chart 3984.  Immediately NE of ‘61' is a small narrow island approximately 1/2nm in length which is unnumbered.  North of the northwesterly corner of this island, on Banks Island, is a small sand/shell beach which is quite visible on Google.  We landed at a lower tide in the channel behind the longer, narrow island entered from the east and it was a couple of hundred meters to the beach over gravel/rocks/mud which provide quite good footing.  The tide marks on the rocks suggest that parts of the beach would survive most tides although be aware that the beach is backed by rock and there would be no place of retreat should the tide keep coming in.  A difficult place to access except at higher tides but a possible choice, if one were going from south to north and seas conditions past Terror Point were unsuitable.  This beach would be exposed to wind from the SW but it is protected from swell by the outer islands.


The Terror of Terror Point


53º 22.96'N / 130º 15.94'W
Calamity Bay
We found places in Calamity Bay where camping is possible along the west and north shores but they are marginal and would require some clearing and flattening.  However, on one of the small islands in the north east part of the Bay is the best site we found since leaving the north end of Banks Island.  At approximately 129º 51'W between 53º 10.5' & 10.8' N there is a group of four small islands.  At lower tides the islands are best accessed along the shore of Banks Island approaching from the south.  The east and north shores of the most northerly and smallest of these islands has good beaches for landing.  The north end of this small island has excellent beach camping on gravel under some trees which should survive most tides.  This is a very pretty spot.  Approximately 1/3 nm north of this small island a creek enters from the NE which has a strong flow.  Near where the creek enters the bay, there is a beaver dam which creates a small lake - an excellent chance for a fresh water swim.



Camp on small island in Calamity Bay

We did not check out the bays on the southeast corner of Banks west of the campsite so there may be some opportunity to camp along the north shore of Otter Passage.