Image by Greg Polkinghorn
Paddling the west coast of Vancouver Island, in one trip or in
many, can be complicated.
The route is exposed and subject to changing weather. Conditions can get very large and you have to pay attention and stay within your skill set. Some stretches of the coastal route can be long, requiring extended periods of cockpit time and potentially difficult surf landings and launches. Many of the places that make sense to land were First Nation village sites or fish camps hence Maa-nulth Treaty lands that require prior approval of the local band office prior to entering. For the most part if there is a good beach it has First Nation’s historical significance and should be treated as such.
Enter my friend and Nanaimo area paddler Glenn Lewis. He
offered to ride with us from his house near Parksville up island to Port Alice
and out 60-some miles of bad roads to Side Bay where he dropped us off and then
delivered the vehicle to the Ucluelet Campground where we hoped to finish in
2-3 weeks. His knowledge of the logging roads out of Port Alice proved
invaluable as we made all the correct turns and arrived at Side Bay around
4:00PM. Oh yes, his wife Joan then drove the 2 hours out to Ucluelet to
pick up Glenn and bring him back home. Amazing, right? On the way
up he provided weather and site-specific data that helped us solidify our
route.
Side Bay to Mayday Island
July 26, Day 1
Overcast, Wind SE at 10 knots, Low
swell with 1 foot chop, Seas rippled
Side Bay
Jon, Dave & Greg
Having been up for over 36 hours we were ready to crash but were
all feeling strangely invigorated being on the water. I was thinking that
I could sell a leg to Heater Point but found myself speaking in tongues and
lost my resolve. Instead we bee-lined just over one nautical mile for
Mayday Island and were there in no time at all.
The beach at Mayday is on the north side of the island and faces
the First Nations reserve where the village of Telaise once stood. The
island features great old growth trees and head high salal.
While setting up camp and fixing dinner we each had an “Oh Shit!”
moment. Greg hadn’t checked his tent prior to the trip and found that the
adhesive holding the window on his rainfly had failed and it had fallen
off. Not a good thing for a coastal climate known for heavy
rainfall. Luckily, I had experienced this very same failure two years
prior and knew what would work and the multitude of things that wouldn’t.
Greg’s repair turned out much nicer than mine had. Mine eventually worked
but clearly documented many failed attempts. Greg’s was clean and neat.
Next, I realized that I had not brought my insulated coffee mug
which meant that the bottom cover from my Jetboil stove would be doing double
duty. No big thing but definitely not the best tool for drinking any hot
liquid. Hard to hold when full of piping hot coffee and cools so quickly
that you end up burning your hands and tongue and then drinking it cold.
No in-between.
Then Dave flashed that he had left all of his lunch food at home
in the fridge. Three sticks of hard salami, as many blocks of cheese,
several packages of soft tortillas and a lot of fruit and veggies. I knew
that we had enough to share for at least a week and that would get us to
Kyuquot where there is a store.
None of these issues were deal breakers but we realized that we had
all made careless mistakes. Some of the objectives we would face could
require our “A-game” and we were looking like rookies. In spite of these
wake-up calls we went to bed early and slept like babies.
Mayday Island to Crabapple Islets
July 27, Day 2
Morning on Side Bay
Morning on Side Bay
We were on the water at 9:30 AM and off towards Heater
Point. The winds were calm and water smooth with a low swell. Passing
Heater Point we paddled close to the rocks hoping for more rebound than the
rocks offered. Nice shoreline here with a couple of very large caves and
lots of pocket beaches. I came across an account of some paddlers who got
blown off Brooks Bay and spent a few days camping in one of those caves.
The caves are accessible from a beach opposite the Heater Point campsite.
Crossing Klashkish Inlet
Image by Dave Resler
On the way to Crabapple Islets we decided to see if we could get
into Cape Cook Lagoon without a lot of drama. Depending on the tide level
and sea state the entrance can be messy with breakers but we had a good water
level and mild seas. The larger waves were amplified by the bar but
didn’t break so we rode them right into the lagoon.
Cape Cook Lagoon
I suppose that at
low tide the lagoon goes dry but we found it full of water and a beautiful
spot. Each of us went our own way and explored whatever we found
interesting. I went ashore and found evidence of previous campers atop
the dune and the remains of a large shelter in the forest. The tarps used
for roofing material were in tatters and, while it had once been a serviceable
shelter, it was past its prime. Plenty of room to set up tents in the
forest and I could hear a stream running into the lagoon nearby.
Image by Greg Polkinghorn
Soon we were back out and around Lagoon Peak to Crabapple Islets
where the beach was without shade and unmercifully hot. The Forever and
Ever Boyz were already well on their way to getting their shelter, shower, etc.
assembled for the coming weeks and had been hauling water from the stream at
the north end of the beach. They told us that the stream was
running strongly enough that we could take a shower. Was that a hint?
While Greg went fishing I investigated the stream and took a
shower. Returning cool and fresh I told Dave about it and he was soon on
his way. Greg returned, cleaned his catch and took a shower.
Crabapple Islets is a wonderful place. Great company. Great
fishing. Great amenities. Great stars at night.
Sunset at Crabapple Islets
Image by Greg Polkinghorn
12.4 NM
Crabapple Islets to Nordstrum Creek
July 28, Day 3
My alarm went off at 4:30 AM. We had broken camp, eaten
breakfast, loaded our boats and were on the water at 6:30 AM. It was a
foggy morning with limited visibility for our trip around Cape Cook.
In 1778 Captain James Cook called the Brooks Peninsula “The Cape
of Storms”. It’s a big chunk of real estate that sticks about ten miles
out to sea, is topped by the Refugium Range that features peaks to 3700 feet
and is guarded by rocks and reefs that stretch for over a nautical mile
offshore. Accounts of rounding the Brooks Peninsula by any water craft
are full of warnings and frightening experiences. Wind, current and sea
state can combine to do some not-so-fun stuff here so we approached this part
of our route with due respect. Mariners recommend staying outside of the
100 fathom line which puts you at least 3 NM from land. Our course was
closer to the 20 fathom line but would still put us 1.5 NM offshore at Clerke
Point and as we were traveling with a falling tide we would tend to cheat to
the right to avoid surprises.
Predicted wave height is a funny thing and it can lull you into dropping your guard
and not thinking about the occasional wave that will exceed that prediction by
a significant amount. Combine that wave that is 2/3 larger than the rest
with an uneven ocean bottom and you can be surprised or worse. The two
hours that we spent getting to Cape Cook were punctuated by one large wave that
came out of the fog, crested and broke just after passing beneath us. A
morning Yahoo-ride and impetus for us to move out a bit. Between the Cape
and Solander Island the water took on that odd texture you experience when
currents collide. Not at all big or threatening just a noticeable
change. The fog started lifting, too and provided us a nice ride down the
coast with a light SE headwind.
Dave at Cape Cook
The
approach into the beach at Nordstrum Creek requires that you paddle a little
past the beach and then cut back in as the creek mouth is very bony. The
best landing is at the east end of the beach and as you approach care has to be
taken to avoid some rocks but the gravel beach had no surf and just a bit of
surge.
Approaching Nordstrum Creek
Image by Dave Resler
I set up my tent on some semi-flat gravel behind a log while Greg
opted for a nook near the outcropping and Dave went for the shade of a
tree. A path led uphill out of Dave’s campsite and it showed the
unmistakable signs of very recent bear traffic. Dave retired to his tent
to snooze while Greg crawled under another tree and went to sleep.
I was on my own as far as entertainment went so I climbed up
through the forest on game trails. Some of those trails were ridiculously
steep or maybe I was just crawling along up very steep slopes where I thought
the trails should go. Not sure but it was interesting coming back down
and when I got to the beach my legs were bleeding and my pants were ripped to
shreds. I think I used to make better decisions about stuff like this or
maybe it just didn’t hurt so much. Whatever, I got out my first aid kit and
tended my wounds.
I grabbed my Dr. Bronners and waded a considerable distance up
Nordstrum Creek looking to see what I could find. It’s a really nice
creek with holes that you can get into and swim, which I did. I also
washed my clothes, bathed and laid on the warm gravel bank. Almost zero
insects, just the sound of the water, the wind in the trees and the sun.
Take me now. I admit to falling asleep.
Nordstrum Creek
On the way back to camp I noticed lots of fresh bear and wolf
tracks plus drag marks made by kayakers as they pulled their boats out of and
then back into the water. Looked like two, maybe three paddlers had left
in the morning.
Greg and Dave were awake by the time I returned. Dave
admitted that his sleep had been disturbed by the sounds of me flailing around
on the steeply forested slope up above his campsite as well as the loud
expletives I uttered as flesh and fabric were torn. Guess it sounded like
a typical day so he tried to pay me no mind. I told them about bathing in
Nordstrum Creek. He thought it sounded like a good idea so we walked back
up the creek.
Nordstrum Creek is a magic place. The stars were
magnificent. I highly recommend it.
Nordstrum Creek to Checleset Bay
July 29, Day 4
Overcast clearing in the afternoon,
Winds SE 10 knots changing to NW at 25-30 knots, Swells to 1.6 meters, 1-2 foot
chop, Seas rippled changing to 2 meter swells with 3 foot chop, Seas moderate.
Image by Dave Resler
We were on the water at 6:30 AM and grinding out of Nordstrum Creek towards
Clerke Point against a 10 knot headwind. The 20 fathom line is at least 2
NM offshore at Clerke and we could see boomers far out to our right as we
approached. Move right. Move right some more.
Off Clerke Point
Image by Dave Resler
Finally rounding Clerke Point we turned north to follow the south
Brooks Peninsula shoreline and stopped to rest and explore caves near
Quineex. The low tide was exposing lots of rocks and reefs along the
shore. Thick Eel Grass made landing slippery but offered some protection
against barnacles.
Rest Stop at Quineex
Continuing on to the “fabled” Jackobson Point beaches we saw that
a large group was camped next to the outcrop that provides a surf break so, not
wishing to intrude, we bumbled ashore through a strange and awkward break at
east end. Landings were successful but nobody was awarded style points.
Once out of our boats we could see that the entire massive expanse
of sandy beach (~1 kilometer) appeared to have been taken over by “driftwood
architecture” and “beach decorations”. Very few tents were set up yet it
looked as if each party that had camped here in the past year had felt
compelled to outdo the rest of the structures that had been built and then
abandoned. I wish folks would either use existing structures or tear the
ones they built back down when the left. It’s the antithesis of “leave no
trace” ethic that creates a wilderness ghetto. Sorry. My
rant. My issue.
We sat on some poorly constructed ghetto benches to eat our lunch
and plan our next move which was a crossing to the Acous Peninsula where we
would start searching out a campsite.
The crossing was wonderful as the fog cleared, the clouds lifted
and the winds remained light. The sweeping panorama from Clerke Point to
the Bunsby Islands was almost too much to take in. Practically everything
we could see was Muquin / Brooks Peninsula Provincial Park, Checleset Bay
Ecological Reserve or Big Bunsby Marine Provincial Park. Magnificent and
mostly unscarred.
There was a group camped on the first islet we checked out so we
continued on to the next which proved to be an interesting campsite with two
beaches and a rock promontory. We set up in the lee of the rock but got
pummeled as that promontory somehow funneled and amplified the building NW wind
directly onto our tent sites. Dave and I had to anchor our
tents down solidly with large chunks of driftwood and boulders attached to
every guy line available and even at that we were rocking and rolling.
Greg set his up in an unappealing-looking spot at the base of a cliff and
escaped the drama.
Two-Beach Islet Camp
We
met the group “next door” when they paddled up to say “Hello”. They were
from Bellingham and Anacortes. Nice group of folks. The fellow who
seemed to be in charge did some guiding for Ginni Callahan in Mexico. He
told us that a paddler from Norway had come around the Brooks the day
before. He would have been just ahead of us and it might have been his
“drag” marks that we saw in the sand at Nordstrum Creek. Later a solo
paddler from Victoria stopped by and chatted. He was coming from the
Mission Group and headed for Jackobson Point where he would be picked up and
water-taxied back to Fair Harbour.
Greg
went out to fish in the wind and moderate seas and provided a couple of
Rockfish for dinner.
We
were treated to a spectacular sunset over the Brooks Peninsula.
Sunset over the Refugium Range
12.4 NM
Checleset Bay to Cautious Point Islet
July 30, Day 5
Clear, Winds NW at 5-15 knots, Low swell, Seas rippled
It was a beautiful clear morning on Two-Beach. After putzing about camp,
drinking coffee, having a leisurely breakfast and finally packing our boats we
paddled towards the Acous Peninsula for a “lisaak” look-see.
Morning on Two-Beach Islet
Image by Dave Resler
The beach at Acous is classic low-friction-to-drag-dugouts gravel
and looks directly towards Hub-toul. Stepping into the forest you come
upon a carved house post that toppled long ago and now serves as a nurse
log. Acous was a Summer village site. The closest fresh water is
about 3/4 mile away. There are clear signs of First Nations history at
that fresh water source IR inside Battle Bay. Was the “village” site of
Acous just where they came and went by canoe? Did the village stretch
from Acous to the Mahope River?
Acous House Post
Image by Greg Polkinghorn
A power boat arrived and anchored nearby so we paddled over to say
hello and see if they knew anything about the store in Kyuquot. We had
heard that the store was only open certain days and certain hours and we wanted
to time our arrival around our ability to replace Dave’s lunch food. The
owner of the boat said that the store’s hours were timed around the arrival of
the Uchuck III and was mostly, otherwise, closed. The Uchuck III was due
there in two days which would work out great for us.
With one day’s paddle and two days to accomplish it we set out to
poke around and enjoy the scenery. Greg wanted to fish and Dave and I
wanted to explore the coastline of Battle Bay so we agreed to meet somewhere in
the Bunsbys.
Our shoreline paddle was very relaxing and enjoyable.
Maybe too relaxing as we were tuned for something a bit more up-tempo.
Still it was a very nice tour of Battle Bay in conditions that a novice would
have been comfortable in. This is a very nice venue for a kayaking trip.
Beautiful place.
Quitting the Muquin / Brooks Peninsula Provincial Park coastline
near Theodore Point we crossed towards Big Bunsby Island and called for Greg on
the FM. He never came back on the radio (time for a new radio, Greg) but
we spotted his red boat in the distance and as we got closer we started to see
flashes around him. Turned out that he had a salmon on that didn’t want
to die, however, the flashes (splashes) stopped and when Dave and I approached
I noticed that Greg was using his spare paddle.
When Greg fishes he uses a paddle leash so that his paddle won’t
float away when he gets busy with a fish. For whatever reason he didn’t
this time and when the fish broke the line he found himself with only his deck
paddle. He had just retrieved his primary when Dave and I arrived.
Can you access your deck paddle when you need it? Greg can.
Bunsby Islands Beach
He was pumped and smelled blood. He wanted to fish some more
so Dave and I told him that we were going to find a place to eat lunch and then
paddle out around Mahope Point to Green Head and we would meet him somewhere
near Cautious Point Islets. Deal!
After lunch we paddled to the iconic Green Head, posed for
photos and continued through a shallow and sheltered passage between the
islands. Pretty and intimate but not what we really came to the coast
for.
Image by Dave Resler
Greg showed up on queue after taking a totally different route
through the islands and we continued on to our desired campsite………which we
found occupied. There are three obvious campsites on three islands within
several hundred meters of each other and we found the one closest to Cautious
point unoccupied. Architecture left by many previous parties dominated
the site but at least the benches and table were solid and not a danger to
collapse under weight.
Prior to visiting Acous, Quineex or any other Checleset First
Nations Reserve one should obtain permission by contacting the Band Office at:
KA:’YU:’K’T’H’/CHE:K’TLES7ET’H’ FIRST NATIONS
General Delivery
Kyuquot, British Columbia
V0P 1J0, Canada
Phone: 1-250-332-5259
Fax: 1-250-332-5210
11.3 NM
Cautious Point Islands to Gross Point
July 31, Day 6
Clear, Winds NW to 10 knots, Swell
to 1.5 meter, Seas rippled
The primary objective for the day was to get to the store in Kyuquot and get
lunch food for Dave. Dave figured that each day that Greg provided fish
was a freeze dried dinner that we could split for lunch. These trips are
all about space in your boat and resources but we never planned to have fuel
for hot lunches so………maybe there really is no free lunch.
Thomas Island
We were up at 4:30 and on the water at 6:30. Winds were
light and the Barrier Islands were providing good cover so we headed ESE to Thomas
Island. It has a cave all the way through it that sounded interesting and
it was on the way to Kyuquot so about an hour later we were there. Greg
was more interested in fishing than spelunking and since we weren’t assured
that the Kyuquot store would be open we agreed that him fishing within sight of
us was a good idea.
“See you a little later, Greg. Catch a big fish. Keep
your radio on”.
An hour later we met up and Greg’s cockpit was bereft of anything
of nutritional value. Bummer.
We paddled through some kelp-tangled shallows to check out a
couple of campsites we had in our GPS’s. Both looked like campsites that
we would only choose if you were desperate or coming and going at high tide.
While I appreciate kelp when it is knocking down swell and making
an otherwise dangerous beach survivable I detest dragging myself through it
with my paddle. It puts me off my feed and makes me hard to be around so
before we finally cleared McKean Island I had separated myself from Dave and Greg
so that they weren’t subjected to my vile mood and vitriolic comments on the
nature of the green vegetation. In a mood I followed them into Walters
Cove.
We entered Walters Cove between 10:30 and 11:00AM. The First
Nation’s village of Houpsitas is located on the north shore (historic tribal
village site and current IR) while the south shore is the non-IR site of
Kyuquot Village. The only activity we saw was on a single boat at the end
of a dock on the north side. Dave approached and asked where the store
was and their hours of operation. He was told that they had been open the
day before and would be open again tomorrow. Not what we wanted to
hear. They did point out the store as the blue building with the long
dock.
Crestfallen and dejected we paddled to the other side of the cove
and noticed a man working on his boat a couple docks to the right of the “blue
building”. Dave talked to him and learned that the owner of the store,
Susie, monitored a particular VHF channel. He suggested that we try to
contact her.
"Sometimes she'll open the store if you are really in
need".
We felt that we met that qualification so Dave hailed her on the
radio but got no response.
The guy on the boat did point out Susie’s house so the next
desperate option was to knock on her door and beg for help. Dave accepted
the role of ambassador as he knew that if I went to the door chances of a
positive outcome were bleak and if Greg went he would be told that the store
was closed until Fall. Few people can resist Dave’s natural charm.
Suzie met us at the store and we all shopped for snacks and
staples that Dave needed and Greg and I craved. For Dave it was
tortillas, cheese, salami and a coke. Greg and I went for chips of all
varieties, soft drinks, Red Bull and apples. Funny what you crave on
these trips. Red Bull isn’t something that I indulge in. I hadn’t
had one in years and yet here I was slugging it down with some sort of bizarre
potato-ish-type chips. I bought two big bags. Dave’s cheese turned
out to be very tasty and I stashed the apples away for later.
With supplies replenished and a Red Bull buzz going we left
Walters Cove crossing Crowther Channel for Union Island. We were planning
to camp beyond Rugged Point near Kapoose Creek. Greg was getting the urge
to send Scout down and we all agreed that fish for dinner would be nice.
Dave and I wanted to check out a campsite in Kyuquot Bay so we planned to meet
up a White Cliff Head, the southernmost tip of Union Island. A radio
check later and Greg was off and running while Dave and I skirted the shoreline
towards Kyuquot Bay.
Union Island Shoreline
Image by Dave Resler
The
campsite marked in BC Coast Explorer turned out to be pretty nice. It
looks a bit small and unappealing from the water but the upland clearings in
the forest provide a great deal of space for setting up tents. Might be a
bit buggy as it is shaded most of the day but it wasn’t on this day. Very
nice spot.
The
entire shoreline of White Cliff Head is steep and dominated by cliffs and
caves. Extremely scenic and the seas were so flat we were able to paddle
right next to shore with little surge or reflected waves. Greg had found
the shoreline to his liking as he hooked a 15 pound Ling Cod and was bringing
it up as we arrived. A fabulous meal was assured.
Greg Provides
Image by Dave Resler
We continued on to Gross Point and found an obvious campsite that
clearly got regular traffic. A sandy slog at low tide. Nearby
Kapoose Creek offered an interesting experience and access to a lovely
meadow. We topped off all of our water bags but upon returning to camp
found that we should have paddled further upstream. It was very brackish
and imparted an authentic flavor to the instant mashed potatoes that we
prepared to go with Greg’s Ling Cod.
We totally pigged out on some of the best tasting fish ever.
19.2 NM
Gross Point to Islet 40 South
August 1, Day 7
Clear, Winds NW 10-15 knots rising
to 20 knots in the afternoon, Swells to 1.5 meter rising to 2 meter in the
afternoon, 1-2 foot chop increasing to 2-3 feet in the afternoon, Seas rippled
changing to moderate in the afternoon.
We were on the water at 6:30 AM and traveling down Clear
Passage. Winds and seas were mellow but the forecast was calling for
things to pick up. We wanted to get past Tatchu Point before it woke
up. Consequently we passed by some shoreline that begged to be
explored. Maybe next time.
We swung wide of Tatchu Point and back in close to Yellow
Bluff. Since the Kapoose water was nasty we needed to find a source to
resupply and a sizeable creek enters Yellow Bluff Bay. The beach is rocky
and the surge tried to be troublesome but we all managed to get ashore without
damaging our hulls. We took the time to fill all of our bags with
filtered water, eat lunch and Greg took a freshwater bath.
Crossing towards Catala Island we stayed along the south shore and
passed between it and Twin Island. There is an interesting feature
between Catala Point and Twin Island that shows very clearly on Google Earth
but didn’t call out to me on the chart or my GPS. With a low enough tide
I suppose that the ~300 meters between the two dries but as we approached it
was submerged. Westerly swell was following us in and breaking along both
shores simultaneously. The break raced along the shores at an amazing
speed and then ran along the bar colliding in the middle of the passage.
It was quite a sight and we watched it for some time before crossing that
bar. Timing was key as the thought of being in the collision zone didn’t
appeal to us. When crossing over it was clear what was going on.
I’ll bet that on a big day it is something to experience.
Nuchatlitz Looking Northwest
Image by Dave Resler
Crossing Gillam Channel we entered Nuchatlitz Marine Provincial
Park on the Northwest tip of Nootka Island. A stunning area and a
world-class kayaking destination. We saw many kayakers and found many of
the camp sites occupied, however, continuing on we came across Islet 40 South
and claimed it as our own.
Nuchatlitz is such a magnificent place that we decided to take a
day off and bask in the beauty.
Nuchatlitz Sunset
Image by Dave Resler
16.5 NM
Islet 40 South Rest Day
August 2, Day 8
Clear, Winds NW 10-15 knots rising
to 20 knots in the afternoon, Swells to 1.5 meter rising to 2 meter in the
afternoon, 1-2 foot chop increasing to 2-3 feet in the afternoon, Seas rippled
changing to moderate in the afternoon.
Lazy day. No 4:30 alarm. Laid in bed
and snoozed. Eventually I got up, made coffee and ate oatmeal. We
spent the day reading, studying charts and napping in the shade.
Rest Day
Islet 40 South Campsite
Islet 40 South to Bajo Point
August 3, Day 9
Clear, Winds NW 5-10 knots, Swells
to 1.5 meter, 1 foot chop, Seas rippled.
We left Islet 40 South at 6:30 AM crossing Nuchatlitz Inlet for Ferrer Point.
The sun rose on another morning in Paradise. Clear skies, light winds and
gentle swell. There were quite a few sport fishermen trolling just inside
the point and we wove our way through them.
Another Morning in Paradise
Image by Dave Resler
Off Ferrer Point
Image by Dave Resler
Prior to reaching Bajo Point we were surrounded by seven Gray
Whales. They were scary-close, clearly aware of our presence and very
much at ease. They just lolled around gently on the surface and kept us
company for 30 minutes. We all had our cameras going and Dave shot a lot
of video. We didn’t get a single good frame during that time and none of
Dave’s video turned out. How strange. Maybe they were aliens.
Bajo Point was the site of a major village named Aass. Oral
tradition credits the people of Aass for inventing the “art of whaling” and of
receiving the Shaman’s Dance from the Wolves. Perhaps the Grays were
reminding us that the whalers of Aass are gone but they still remain…..”and by
the way, we trashed your photos”.
Pumped up with whale endorphins we happily continued past Calvin
Falls towards Bajo Point. Though the coast is exposed Bajo Point is
fronted by extensive kelp beds and a low reef. Both provide shelter for
landing on the thick eel grass that covers the shallows. We experienced
no surf and only mild surge. A group of backpackers were surprised to see
us come ashore. They were doing the Nootka Trail. Two had traveled from
Amsterdam to do the trail.
Bajo Point Campsite
The forest is fairly open behind the point and house depressions
from the village are still obvious. There is a major game trail that Greg
Polkinghorn referred to as I-5. Sign of recent bear and wolf traffic was
evident. One of those bears paid a brief visit late in the day.
Afternoon at Bajo Point
13.3 NM
Bajo Point to Burdwood Bay
August 4, Day 10
Clear, Winds NW at 5-15 knots
increasing to 20 knots in the afternoon, Swells to 1.5 meter with 2 foot chop
increasing to 3 foot chop in the afternoon, Seas rippled increasing to moderate
in the afternoon.
I awoke to another crystal morning at 4:30 AM and stuck my head out. Greg
spoke softly from his tent telling me that prior to my alarm going off he had
been watching a large wolf sniffing at my tent. I wish I would have been
awake to experience it. I suspect that he was there to teach me the
Shaman’s Dance.
Morning Light off Bajo Point
Just outside of camp a
Black Bear was checking through the high tide detritus for treats. The weather
radio was calling for NW @ 15-20 knots with Gale Warnings, 25-30 knots in the
afternoon. We needed to get around Maquinna Point and across Nootka Sound
before it got “busy”.
Bajo Bear
Image by Greg Polkinghorn
A collection of sport fisherman trolling between Beano and
Callicum Creeks convinced Greg that he needed to wet a line. About the
time he started the boats all pulled in their lines and raced out to sea to the
next hot spot.
Callicum Creek
We took a break at Callicum Creek and then headed off towards
Maquinna Point and Nootka Sound. The shoreline beyond Maquinna Point is
pocked with caves and the mild sea state allowed us to get in close and stay
close all the way to Yuquot and the Nootka Island Lighthouse.
Nootka Island Lighthouse
We hadn’t determined where we would camp but the wind and sea
state was increasing and we either needed to stay put or get across Nootka
Sound before the inflow winds created problematic conditions. Staying put
didn’t appeal so we struck out for Burdwood Bay across 15 – 20 knot inflow
winds and moderate seas to 1.5 meter with 3 foot chop. That was a really
wet and enjoyable 2 NM paddle. The textured water was a beautiful shade
of blue.
The “BC Coastal Explorer” cautions of underestimating the surf in
Burdwood Bay and that was on our minds as we sat off the beach trying to get
the feel for the place. We all got ashore just fine but learned what
Kimantas was warning us about. Again, no style points.
Looking Across Nootka Sound
from Burdwood Bay
12.7 NM
Burdwood Bay to Homais Cove
August 5, Day 11
Overcast in the morning then
clearing, Winds SE 10-15 knots changing to NW 5-10 knots, Swells to 2 meter
with 2 foot chop increasing to 3 foot chop, Seas rippled increasing to
moderate.
Estevan
Point is the southernmost tip of the Hesquiat Peninsula. It’s another
crux move with shallows extending far offshore where winds and significant
currents clash. It isn’t a place that we wanted to experience with a
topping of afternoon winds so our goal was to establish camp as close to the
point as we safely could and round it in the morning before Estevan had a
chance to get its bitch on. Barcester Bay seemed a good option on the
chart as it would stage us within two hours of Estevan. The second and
perhaps more desirable option was Homais. A scant 30 – 40 minutes from
the point. Homais, however, is Hesquiat IR and we hadn’t secured
permission to camp.
There
is a trail (Hesquiat Trail) that follows the coast from Burdwood down around
and past Estevan Point so there are a number of campsites used by
backpackers. Backpackers don’t have to land and launch, though, and for
paddlers the options are very limited.
We
were off the beach at 6:30 AM and working our way around Burdwood Point.
The breeze was picking up against us and packing fog against the
shoreline. The water was rippled but was not showing much personality
yet. We had been seeking more interesting water close to the shore, near
reefs, rocks, etc. and as we progressed towards Escalante Point we started
finding what we were looking for. Lots of fun.
Morning on Burdwood Bay
The breeze and sea state continued to build until we came even
with Split Cape and then started moderating. The swell remained but the
wind backed down to nearly nothing. The sound of the Sea Lion colony on
Perez Rocks at the far end of Barcester Bay became audible and their stench was
obvious. We were looking forward to 2.5 NM of sensory overload unless we
could get off the water and in spite of the diminishing wind Barcester’s beaches
appeared to be closed out by surf. Nothing friendly so we moved on in the
stink and the swell.
The chart was telling Dave that we could go inside of Perez Rocks
and my GPS suggested the same. Since the wind and chop had diminished we
were looking to get knocked around a bit so we started scouting for a way
through. Greg (a realist) quickly started questioning the wisdom of the
plan. Dave and I were still pretty sure that we could get through.
Very soon, though, we were in a dead end and the only way out was either the
way we had entered or through a couple of lines of breaking waves. The
tide was falling so our situation was changing rapidly and not for the
good. I came around to Greg’s point of view and we started
backtracking. Dave chose to break out through the surf and as Greg and I
started looking for a route around Perez we found ourselves climbing over 8
foot cresting waves. Again and again and again and again before we were
clear in deeper water.
Greg and I were in relatively safe water again and began to paddle
further and further out around the weirdness. We could see Dave picking
his way out and kept our eyes on him until he could join us. Just a walk
in the park in his Grand Illusion. Now it was just the unbelievable stink
of the huge Sea Lion colony and our hopes that they weren’t overly aggressive
as we slowly bucked the current through their “hood”. The cacophony of
their barks and growls was unnerving and the smell was overpowering. I
have never liked Sea Lions. Several followed and mocked us but never
charged and we wound our way into Homais Cove where we found a safe gravel
beach to camp on at the abandoned First Nations village site.
Had we planned on camping at Homais we would have sought
permission to do so by contacting the Hesquiat Band Office at:
P.O. Box 2000
Tofino, BC VOR 2Z0
Campbell River Radio Operator
(250) 724-8570/9807 Ch. 466
Hesquiaht Boat Basin
FAX 724-8570
First European contact occurred off Langara Island, Haida Gwaii in July 1774
between Spaniard Juan Perez and members of the Haida Nation. About three
weeks later Perez was anchored off these very rocks to trade with the
Nuu-chah-nulth when a storm blew up. He had to run but was unable to
raise his anchor. He cut it loose and it’s still out there somewhere in
the rocks that now bear his name. Four years later Captain Cook
“discovered” the coast and claimed first contact. He also named Perez
Rocks "Breakers Rocks". Cook was wrong on his claims but right
on his name for the rocks.
13.5 NM
Homais Cove to Halfmoon Beach
August 6, Day 12
Fog then clearing, Winds SE 10-15
knots changing to NW 5-10 knots
We were up and on the water for a foggy departure at 6:30 AM. Greg led us
out with very limited visibility. The Sea Lions barked loudly somewhere
off starboard. Our plan was to paddle a course of 175 degrees for 35 – 40
minutes before feeling our way around Estevan towards Matlahaw Point.
Morning on Homais Cove
The water quickly started showing signs of mixing currents
colliding with swell. Waves were standing up quickly but seldom
breaking. If you stopped paddling you started moving backwards at 1.5 – 2
knots. Interesting, I suppose. Sort of like Tatnall Reefs, Cape
Scott, Slingsby Channel with zero visibility. Keeps you guessing at what
else is coming that you can’t see. From time to time one of our Sea Lion
buddies paid us a visit but didn’t cause trouble. We were happy to clear
Estevan Point and hang a left.
We paddled in fog from Homais Cove to the shoreline east of
Hesquiat Point where we started looking for a place to take out and rest.
The gravel beaches there were not well suited for landing with the tide level
we had as they were steep with lots of surge. We found a narrow
opportunity to exit near the brown outlet stream from Kanim Lake.
Following lunch we paddled in tannin-colored sea water along one
of the most remarkable coastlines I have ever seen. This is 4.5 NM of
caves and tiny protected coves. At one point Dave and I figured that we
were looking at 12 caves along 100 meters of shoreline. Some were very
large and others small but all looked incredibly interesting. A stunning
coastline that I had never heard a word about before.
Image by Greg Polkinghorn
At last
we reached the entrance to Hot Springs Cove and it was made clear that we were
back in the real world as a bright yellow boat with a large logo printed on the
side bearing a group or poncho-clad clients pounded around Sharp Point and into
the cove. Whoa! And then another. Different logo this
time.
The fog
cleared as we started across Sydney Inlet towards Halfmoon Bay. Stunning
scenery with power boats to the left and the right and the drone of sea planes
overhead. Wind was picking up just a bit imparting texture to the
water. Glenn had recommended a small-ish beach south of Halfmoon Bay but
we could see several tents set up so we continued on.
Entering
Halfmoon Bay we saw that many folks were already camped there but we were
“done” and weren’t about to extend the day for the sake of solitude. We
slid ashore between two groups of tents. Dave and Greg got out and
explored the tree line while I sat comfortably in my cockpit. Soon
they were talking to a woman who recommended that we camp at the extreme north
end of the beach. I pulled my gear, packed it in beach bags and slogged
150 meters to our campsite. Dave and Greg both paddled around some rocks
that cut 100 meters off of that distance. I have to learn to be more patient.
It turned
out that the woman who recommended our campsite was Beverely from Nanaimo and
she knew Glenn from Nanaimo Paddlers. Her two companions (Sister Laura
and friend Gloria) had gone off to Hot Springs Cove and I had paddled briefly
with Gloria during my solo trip (http://3meterswell.blogspot.com/2012/08/klemtu-2-port-hardy-2012.html) in
2012. Beverly explained to us what all the vertical sticks in the beach
meant. Thank you, Beverly.
Greg had gone out to fish and Beverely assured us that he wouldn’t catch
anything. She had been out earlier, was familiar with the area and had
gotten skunked. Dave bet her that Greg would come back with fish in the
boat and she took the bet. She bet a pot of delicious soup that she had
prepared for dinner that Greg wouldn’t provide a meal. Needless to say
Greg returned with two large Rockfish and a Snapper. Too much fish for us
to eat so he gave Beverley a fish and one of his lures (Scout) in return for
the soup. It was a good trade and a great meal.
Chez Greg Prepares Rockfish,
Snapper & Beverely’s Soup
That night the six of us sat around the fire, told stories, joked
and laughed. Very good company. As Americans we didn’t clearly
didn’t quite measure up and were schooled by Beverely on most everything from
Greg's fire building skills (which are above reproach), the garbage we burned
to the amount of flesh left on the bones of the three fish that Greg
filleted. She did not school us on fishing. Greg made us
proud………..and very full.
Beverely, Laura & Gloria
Image by Dave Resler
19 NM
Halfmoon Beach to Cow Bay
August 7, Day 13
Fog in the morning then clearing, NW
winds 5-10 knots increasing to NW 10-15 knots, Low swell with 1 foot chop, Seas
rippled
It was the usual off-the-beach-at-6:30-and-into-the-fog
routine. Not a lot to look at during the 1.5 hours it took to travel to Rafael
Point other than sea planes flying overhead. Quite a few of them.
The fog cleared at Rafael Point and we could see a seaplane circling over a few
boats a little over 2 NM ahead. It didn’t take long before the plumes of
the whale breaths were visible but it took a while to get to them. In the
time it took to paddle to the boats we saw the whales come and go a couple of
times, tour boats change shifts, one plane leave and another arrive to circle
overhead. The rhythm, dance, process of whale watching.
The tour boat with clients in matching ponchos was the only boat
that was maintaining the required 100 yard distance from the whales. The
private boats were all inside that zone. Seeing those boats and having
spent time among the group of seven a couple days before we approached one of
them and Dave said to the skipper “They are putting on a good show today”, and
the skipper responded, “They were until you showed up”.
Really? What a pompous ass! I hope he runs his boat
aground and his insurance doesn’t pay. Time to go.
There was a long line of breakers stretching out from shore that
blocked our path near Siwash Cove. We worked our way along the line until
we found a narrow spot where the waves were peaking but not breaking and rode
over the reef.
Near Siwash Cove
Image by Dave Resler
We didn’t have a particular destination for the day. We
planned camp somewhere near the south end of Vargas on our last night of the
trip as it would set us up pretty well for the final push to Uclulet but no
specific plans until then. We didn’t want to get there too soon, though,
before we had a chance to see a bit of what Clayoquot Sound has to offer so we
figured to look around and camp where it made sense. Dave wanted to surf
at Ahous Bay so we would do that tomorrow. We just poked along the shoreline
and dodged rocks, stopped at beaches, took our time.
Near Cow Bay we encountered a kayaker from Vancouver. He
told us that he was camped with his extended family around the corner and that
we should join them. Nice guy so we rounded the corner and saw a
multitude of tents and over 20 people near Cow Creek. Not what we had in
mind but the bay was spectacular and we saw an adjacent beach that was
separated by a rock outcrop. Dave thought that the surf might come up in
the bay and the small beach looked pretty nice so we decided to go in close for
a look.
Swell was small but we were thinking about the surprise that we
had experienced landing at Burdwood and didn’t want to experience it
again. Dave and I were sitting close together with our backs turned to
the sea and Greg was a bit behind us. Suddenly Greg shouted “Whoa, whoa,
whoa!” and Dave and I instinctively back paddled while Greg shot between us
towards the beach on the face of a cresting wave. Dave and I continued to
back paddle watching as Greg did a great job of surfing towards the
beach. The next wave was larger and slapped us strongly in the back but
we rode over it. Greg, meanwhile had broached into a bongo slide and was
bracing nicely on the foam pile. As it passed under him he started to
square himself towards shore but the next wave took him out. In water too
shallow to roll so Greg exited and drug his boat to shore. It was
hilarious to watch and we howled with laughter while performing our own
landings and watching diligently over our shoulders.
Cow Bay Campsite
The campsite turned out to be a very nice one with shade up close
to the uplands and a sun drenched outcrop to provide privacy and to dry our
gear on. It was at this site that we began to discuss our dwindling desire
to subject ourselves to that final leg from Vargas to Uclulet. Greg
clearly wasn’t interested in doing it. Dave was on the fence but maybe
leaning slightly towards finishing in Tofino. I didn’t think it would be
fun at all but we had everything in place to be able to accomplish it and it
was a leg of the bigger goal and had to be done at some point. We were
here now. Not sure when we would be back. On the other hand……WE
WERE HERE NOW, not sure when we would be back and this place is gorgeous.
We agreed to consider it for a day.
9.7 NM
Cow Bay to Ahous Bay
August 8, Day 14
Fog in the morning then clearing, NW
winds 5-10 knots increasing to NW 15-20 knots, Low swell with 1 foot chop
increasing to 3 foot chop, Seas rippled changing to moderate
Sunrise on Cow Bay
Wonderful sunrise as the fog cleared along the shore. It
persisted over the water and we paddled a compass course of 124 degrees past
the east end of Cow Bay and shifted to 105 degrees through the Garrard Group to
Whaler Islet. It was fun picking through the Garrard Group in the fog and
we were fortunate that the sea was still sleeping.
On a 124 out of Cow Bay
Photos and descriptions of Whaler Islet had always intrigued me
and it didn’t disappoint as it appeared out of the lifting fog. Lovely
muted colors tinged with silver and grey.
Whaler Islet
Knowing that the trip was winding down and not wanting it to end,
being in such a beautiful place with a short mileage day and thinking about the
last leg had us dragging. Not out of fatigue but just trying to make it
last. Dave had been looking forward to surfing near Acous Bay so that was
on the agenda and would extend the day.
Pondering our next move on
Whaler Islet
Image by Greg Polkinghorn
Greg was done pondering days
ago
Whaler Islet
Under clear skies we struck out for Blunden Island and bounced
along its outer shoreline in building NW winds. On the northeastern
corner are a couple of campsites that we wanted to peek at. One is on an
islet that is fronted with a shell beach and crystal clear water. We
stopped and ate a leisurely lunch. A bit of discussion on whether to push
for Uclulet in the morning but no decisions were made.
Crystal clear water near
Blunden Island
Crossing from Blunden to Dave’s Surfing Paradise was pretty wet
and lumpy with the afternoon blow fully developed and wind and seas on our port
beam. We could see a few tents above the Vargas beach plus some kayaks
and campers who seemed interested in what we were doing. The water was
really messy and the backs of the breaks looked unhealthy so we ran with it
down around the point and tucked into a quite cove with a nice beach, a pit
toilet and a food locker. The pursuit of surfing was abandoned and we
basked in the shelter of the rocks and trees while the wind whipped the water
off our shore.
With camp established Greg and Dave set off in different
directions. Greg, in search of the perfect firewood and his quest took
him through the forest to the beach we had hoped to surf. Dave got out
his sewing kit and neoprene goop and set about repairing some holes that had
developed in his gloves. I stretched out against a log to read
and nap.
At dinner we discussed the prospects of paddling 25 NM against the
consistent up-island current while a 20+ knot northwesterly blew against it,
navigating past the late afternoon blow weirdness in Carolina Channel and then
beating a couple of NM up Uclulet Inlet against the full ebb and afternoon
wind.
I wasn’t looking forward to it. Greg, flat out, called
it a bogus plan.
Dave knew it was coming but didn’t want to do it. He
suggested that we call it a trip at Tofino and nobody complained. We were
all totally in to finish at Tofino, have a good lunch with a beer, cop a cab
ride to Ucluelet, retrieve Greg’s car, drive back to Seattle and sleep in our
own beds. What a concept. That means that next year we start in
Tofino and do the ugly leg on day one.
Decision made we went to our tents and slept soundly
10.6 NM
Ahous Bay to Tofino
August 9, Day 15
Fog in the morning then clearing,
Winds light, Low swell, Seas smooth
There was no need to hurry as we had less than
two hours of paddling and we wanted to catch the flood that swept through
Duffin Passage into Tofino at 11:00AM. Still, I woke up early and caught
a beautiful sunrise.
Sunrise on Ahous Bay
While rounding Ahous Point towards the La Croix Group we
encountered the first of several whale watching boats as it sped past towards
wherever the Greys had been spotted. With the exception of their wakes
the water was glassy smooth.
Greg off Vargas Island
Too soon we were coasting with the current through a last farewell
rip and around a rocky point into town. We almost blew past the take out
which is a bit on the bony side. I think I did the most damage of the
whole trip to my boat on that beach.
Take out in Tofino
We pulled the boats up onto the grass and Greg took off to see if
he could hitch a ride to Uclulet. No luck after an hour so he returned to
get some more money and call a cab. An hour and a half later he returned
with the FourRunner, we loaded up and went for a burger and beer.
6.5 NM
The theme of last year’s trip seemed to be fog and the coastline
that we paddled but didn’t see. This year there was some fog but it was
never a dominate factor. It was mostly here and then gone, yielding to
sunny skies. This year clear skies and friendly seas prevailed and we
didn’t have a single day of rain. It did spit some drizzle rounding the
Brooks Peninsula but that was a gift compared to what can go on there.
Fabulous sunrises and sunsets.
We paddled 168 NM in 14 days averaging 12 NM/day. That
average is 2 – 3 NM less than previous trips. The shortest day was 1.1 NM
and the longest was 19.2. Total Leisure Class numbers. Must be
getting soft or maybe it speaks to the numerous camp sites that we had to
choose from.
Temperatures were typically between 50 – 70 degrees. Some
nights got cooler but some evenings we slept without a rainfly and there was no
dew in the morning.
Dave Resler
Image by Greg Polkinghorn
Bugs
were not an issue. A few mosquitos but zero no-see-ums. Tons of
bugs in the dried Eel Grass but they stayed there and didn’t bother us.
Fresh
water sources were never a problem and we became very fond of Greg’s MSR
Autoflow Gravity Filter. I have to get one of those. I may have to
name my MSR MiniWorks the MSR TooMuchWork.
We
didn’t see many Humpbacks but the Gray Whales more than made up for that.
Most every day there were Grays around and that group that surrounded us near
Bajo Point was epic
In
all the trips that I have taken to the BC coast I had never seen a bear until
this trip. We had one Black Bear in camp at Bajo Point and saw several
more along the shoreline while traveling.
Greg Polkinghorn
Image by Dave Resler
I didn’t see any wolves but one saw me and Greg saw him.
Pretty cool to know that he was checking me out while I slept.
We saw a ton of Sea Otters and Greg took many photos of
them. Hard to think that they were gone from this coast not that many
years ago.
Our route passed through several kayaking destinations that we got
to see but not fully experience. Each of them is a gem and I
understand how folks go to one and spend a week or more. Brooks Bay,
Checleset Bay, Kyuquot Sound, Esperanza Inlet, Nuchatlitz, Nootka Sound,
Hesquiat and Clayoquot Sound.
Unfortunately, in my opinion, there is not enough “leave no trace”
ethic being practiced as many beaches and campsites are developed beyond
reason. Kayakers have been traveling this coast for decades so the
standard sites will show some use but I believe that folks should make more of
an effort to cover their tracks rather than memorialize them. The Forever
and Ever Boyz have been camping at Crabapple Islets for over two decades and
each year they create a sophisticated infrastructure to support their visit but
when they leave there is no trace that they were ever there.
I was surprised by the beauty of Nuchatlitz. The area is
busy but spectacular. Easy to see why so many paddlers make the
pilgrimage.
Jon Dawkins
Image by Dave Resler
Clayoquot Sound is interesting. When we arrived at Hot
Springs Cove it was like we had walked through a door that led from wilderness
to the bustling city. Boats running here and there, seaplanes
constantly droning overhead and somebody on almost every beach. It is
still one of the most beautiful places I have ever seen. Magnificent
and busy.
A huge thanks to Glenn Lewis of Nanaimo who has been providing me
with hard-to-find route information on the BC Coast for several years
now. He is incredibly generous with his time and has shared specific
location, tide, current and weather information that would have, otherwise,
eluded me. The amount of work that he and the Nanaimo Paddlers put
into the field guides for Banks, Estevan, Aristazabal, Price and Calvert
Islands help open isolated stretches of coast to paddlers and protect the coast
from exploitation and destruction. I can’t thank him enough for
doing the driving for us from Side Bay to Uclulet.
I’m always thankful to John Kimantas for the work he has done with
“the Wild Coast” series of guidebooks and “The BC Coast Explorer”. He has
always been responsive to personal queries about route choices and BC coast
politics. Buy his books.
So what to do next year????????????
Juneau to Prince Rupert?
Tofino to Port Townsend?
The outside of Porcher, Banks, Estevan, Aristazabal, Price,
Athlone?
So many choices……so little time.
Revised 12/19/2019
Revised 12/19/2019
