3meterswell
Kayak trips on the BC Coast
Monday, November 18, 2024
Kayak Bill Camps - Dallas Island
Monday, August 12, 2024
Bivi at Safety Cove
On day 14 of our 2023 trip from Klemtu to Port Hardy Dave Resler
and I ended up at a place called Safety Cove on east side of Calvert
Island. That came at the end of a 22-mile
day grinding against rain driven by 15 kt headwinds and a moderate sea
state. Hard work in snotty
conditions. We figured that with a name
like Safety Cove we would find a decent place to camp. We had earned it but no such luck. What we found was a sliver of high slope shell
“beach” that would barely survive the 12.4’ high tide while providing no room for
tents. The backing forest was impenetrable. There were two big logs that we could sit
between in an upright fetal position, so I strung my tarp over them. It was tight but would have to do.
This was to be a wet, windy drysuit bivi in our PFD’s, hooded
Storm Cags, wool hats, and spray skirts around our necks for added
insulation. I pulled the foam seat from
the Grand Illusion to insulate my butt and put on my last dry Glacier Gloves. We piled all our drybags on top of our legs
and spread Dave’s ultralight tarp over us for a blanket. It felt OK for about 30 minutes.
The cold wind and rain continued through the night and,
having firsthand experience with hypothermia, I monitored my temperature
closely. Shortly before sunrise the wind
dropped, the rain stopped, and I actually fell asleep for 30 minutes or so.
Not the worst night I have spent on the BC coast but still
earns a rating of Type III fun.
Thursday, February 29, 2024
Never Turn Your Back on the Sea
Honolulu’s own Duke Paoa Kahinu Mokoe Hulikohola Kahanamoku is recognized as the Father of Surfing and during his life gained worldwide popularity as an Olympic swimmer, all round waterman and humble philosopher. Many popular quotes track back to him during his 77 years and maybe the most famous is “Never turn your back on the ocean”.
The late, great Eric Soares was a spectacular modern-day waterman in his own right. Co-founder and Commander of the Tsunami Rangers he and his crew introduced the world to a gonzo sea kayaking discipline that is called Rock Gardening. While Eric departed this plane in 2012, he left us with his Ten Commandments of Sea Kayaking. Knowing a good idea when he heard it he borrowed from Duke and his First Commandment is “Never turn your back on the sea”.
Monday, September 11, 2023
Klemtu 2 Port Hardy 2023
After six years of retirement preparations, Covid restrictions and the business of selling our house, buying a new one and moving to Everett it was time to return to the BC coast and the Great Bear Rain Forest. It had been even longer for my paddling partner, Dave Resler, who made it clear that he was going, no matter what. All he asked me to do was all the planning and preparations. Piece of cake, right?
Honestly, I wasn’t convinced that he would really be able to
go so I put off planning longer than I normally would have and when I did start
I found that all of my nautical charts and charting tools had disappeared in
our move. Unbelievable! I bought enough replacements to cover the
waters between Port Hardy and Caamano Sound as I figured that I could come up
with something interesting there but then found that Garmin had discontinued
support for Homeport, the charting program I use. Double unbelievable! I had lost significant functionality in their
decision to cast me aside but figured out enough workarounds to where I could
get by.
With my new charts and crippled Homeport application I decided to
create a trip that would be familiar yet have enough new twists and turns to be
interesting. I felt that it would be
most efficient (and fun) to ferry up to Klemtu and paddle back to Port Hardy by
whatever route struck our fancy and that the conditions would accommodate. Most of our “planned” campsites were just
options and not hard and fast daily destinations. Heresy, for some, but that's how I roll. It would be a vague route that would allow us
to change with the wind. The chart work
took me a couple of months of consistent work to complete.
After losing all of my charts, finding my charting program
“broken”, several of my dry bags delaminated, battery cases rusted shut, some
safety gear expired or worn out and other key gear missing in action I
shouldn’t have assumed that I was through the “broken phase” of the trip. And I wasn’t.
Dave had a new Garmin Mini 2 that would allow limited texting. Since this brought a new expectation to our
trips and because I was sensing that there might be some communication issues
regarding conditions, movement, etc. I asked local paddler, mentor and all
around good guy, Bill Porter, to act as our interpreter when and if a message
really needed clarification and the guy who would handle things if we really
needed help.
This is the story of the Carhartt Duct Tape Tour.
Thursday, June 1, 2023
Joey-Walks-with-White-Feet
Saturday, October 1, 2022
Marcel Speaks
Originally published 4/21/2021
On my second day of skiing I participated in a series of bad decisions that nearly cost me and my friends our lives. Being in high school at the time when bad ideas and bad decisions were a way of life the only thing that is surprising is that we survived. Without belaboring details let me just say that we had gotten lost and were suffering from hypothermia. We were rescued by three remarkable men, two of whom told me years later that when they found us, we had maybe 2 hours to live. Two of those men were very kind but the third was a beast.
The beast was a German expat named Marcel Schuster who had served on the Russian Front in WWII as a Nazi Mountain Trooper. He was captured and spent three years in a POW camp which didn’t make him a nicer person. He was entirely unpleasant and totally unsympathetic to our situation. During our rescue the only six words he uttered to us were “You Stoopid Boyzzz” and “Learn or Die” followed by another “You Stoopid Boyzzz”. After eight years I was reunited with the three men who I owed my life to and Marcel didn’t smile and wouldn’t shake my hand. All he said while looking at me with a cold and bitter stare was “You Stoopid Boyzzz”.
I’m going to get to the kayaking part in a minute but before I do I want to mention what a strong influence Marcel’s message has had on my life choices. Though I have met no one who knew him who would describe him as a nice guy he spoke to me in a way that got my attention and that I understood.
I think that many of us choose our activities, boating or
otherwise, where we accommodate objective risks and plan for what subjective
risk / rewards we may or may not be willing to consider. Since that cold Winter night in my 17th
year when I had 2 hours to live but was snatched from death by two nice men and
one acerbic ex-Nazi with a short temper and no tolerance for the dumb-assery of
youth I have heard Marcel speak to me a number of times. When he speaks I listen.
I was 2 days into a 2 week solo kayaking trip on the BC coast when my weather radio told me that an intense ridge was setting up over Haida Gwaii and that it would bring 40 kt winds to the area. That made my intended route and my current location untenable. I had two days to seek a sheltered route, which was doable, but I didn’t want to go where the easy and safe routes would take me. There was a 6 mile stretch of coastline on Athlone Island that I wanted to see and if I hurried, I could paddle it and get into the lee of the Bardswell Group before the winds arrived, but just barely. Once sheltered by the Bardswells I could scurry from here to there like a mouse evading a hungry cat, safe as long as I didn’t get caught in the open. So, for 2 days I monitored weather and hustled towards safety.